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Without the grills, there is plastic mountings exposed under the lights which make it look like somethings missing, (but not as bad as gaping holes in the bumper).

The tabs could easily just be cut off though, no probs, and yes they will fit a 2 door.

I put some coupe fogs on for a while. Straight swap.

I cut the grille bits off mine leaving the top section that hides the bolts. The grilles look like anus tbh.

Dunno if I posted this one here, I hope not. It's hard to get new photos when it just sits there.

56644_3419140652128_1357731342_o.jpg

sedan ones look much better but still not a fan personally... making a sort of diffuser/bash plate to follow the shape of the bumper & under the k frame at the moment so not worrying bout the lights, will give me some time to think..

Nice and clean miguelone

i see what you've done there Miguelone. looks like the way to go about it.

Takz ive seen this pic before but could find it again..thanks for the repost so i can have a better look. :) they do look good with the Nismo lip.

That is mad Taks seeing yours and miguelone's may change my mind, no harm in having 2 options.

im loving all of the standard bumpers around here all you seem to see on the street is body kits.

those bumper lights always looked to me like they are upside down...if you were to flip them 180 degrees so the wedge was on the outside and on the bottom it would flow much better with the headlights..Nissan design fault i guess :P

Anus grill user reporting for duty.

grill1355788160.jpg

I ummmed and aarrrred for ages but I think I'm happy I kept em.

Look a lot better on black, tend to look too fiddly on lighter colours imo. Are your guards completely stock or are they pumped slightly?

Look a lot better on black, tend to look too fiddly on lighter colours imo.

That's exactly why I changed my grill from the double slat Sedan style to the single Coupe style. The whole front looked a bit too busy.

Soooooooooo... Dark Anus For The Win !!! Wasn't he the guy in StarWars?

Those ^^^ lights do look kinda nice with the yellow. Is that just tinting put on? Certainly would help to hide the yellow fever.

I need to fix up some cracks in my lip and put it on, but for now, after a fresh wash and complete with anus grills, my baby looks like this...

BlackBettyClean2yrs_zps225f36eb.jpg

nice man very clean, do you like the chrome window trim cos i reckon it would look great in matte black

i know it needs heaps moar low haha, the coilovers are wound down as far as they go, need to get some adjustable tube ones, it still is like 9cm off the ground at the front. but i agree with you it still needs more

i kinda like the unfinished, empty look of the front at the moment, but i change the look so often i will get over it in a week or so and do something new, gotta keep mixing it up.

Edited by PaulosECR33

nice man very clean, do you like the chrome window trim cos i reckon it would look great in matte black

I don't mind the shiny, goes with the rims and fits with the weather shields cause they have it too.

I'm thinking of maybe painting the wheels black instead of the goldy bronze but leave the shiny lip.

If I had all black wheels, maybe the chrome could go black too.

BlackBettyClean2yrs2_zps73d4b375.jpg

Edited by Not a Pulsar

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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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