Jump to content
SAU Community

Advice On Changing The Belts

khunjeng

By khunjeng,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

ok I went to change the belts....air con/alt belts are easy to get off but they sit inside of the PS belt which appears to have its bolt to loosen the tesnion is a crappy spot. Made it really hard to get a 12mm ring spanner in there.

do I just cut the belt and do it that way...but I thought I would still have trouble when tightening it all up again....

it appears to be on accessable from under the car in a crap spot...unless i'm missing something (which may be the case)

some help would be useful.

KJ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130878-advice-on-changing-the-belts/
Share on other sites
khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmm ok..but even with a small socket I don't seem to fit the rachet into the gap i.e. no room.

I have had another go and think i have worked it out but its a bitch. I was using a ring spanner and could only move it 1/4 each attemt which sucked...the adjustment section bolts onto the bracket that holds the PS pump so my assumption is that if that bolt is taken off I can move it to get some slack...although it was really hard to get it off...I gave up and did some other stuff instead..

maybe my rachet is too big...but to me its a pretty std size.

I read the manual and it just says take off the PS bolt...I assume I have the right bolt although it totally sucks in terms of access...

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

As with most things to do with working on a Nissan these days, if something is restricting access to the bit you want, remove it.

If it's anything like the R32, there is an IC pipe in the way, right? Remove it.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hmm ok..but even with a small socket I don't seem to fit the rachet into the gap i.e. no room.

I have had another go and think i have worked it out but its a bitch. I was using a ring spanner and could only move it 1/4 each attemt which sucked...the adjustment section bolts onto the bracket that holds the PS pump so my assumption is that if that bolt is taken off I can move it to get some slack...although it was really hard to get it off...I gave up and did some other stuff instead..

maybe my rachet is too big...but to me its a pretty std size.

I read the manual and it just says take off the PS bolt...I assume I have the right bolt although it totally sucks in terms of access...

its more the fans in the way...but will take that and see what I can do tomorrow.

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

Should be the same as the r32. From memory there is 1 bolt as a lock, then another bolt to adjust the tension. U have the right bolt, and as blind_elk said working on nissan sucks.

If u are replacing all belts, then just cut em off and stick newies on...

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Are you talking about the adjusting bolt?( 12mm head on the side) Or the bolt that secures the pump ( 14 mm head). The first one is very easy to get to . You must loosen the first one before you attemp to swivel the pump in order to get the belt off. All you need is a 14mm 3/8 drive socket ( you may fit a 1/2" drive but 3/8 is much easier), turn the pump drive so the the bolt head lines up with one of the holes put your socket in there and loosen it ..

Dont even think of breaking the belt to get it off, how are you going to get the new one on???

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are you talking about the adjusting bolt?( 12mm head on the side) Or the bolt that secures the pump ( 14 mm head). The first one is very easy to get to . You must loosen the first one before you attemp to swivel the pump in order to get the belt off. All you need is a 14mm 3/8 drive socket ( you may fit a 1/2" drive but 3/8 is much easier), turn the pump drive so the the bolt head lines up with one of the holes put your socket in there and loosen it ..

Dont even think of breaking the belt to get it off, how are you going to get the new one on???

yeah thanks man 1/2 drive is too big for me...so I needed to get the 3/8 set back off my mate during the week. Yeah its a 14mm socket for the lock bolt...thats the one I'm trying to get off...anyway wait until next weekend.

Yeah I'm not cutting off the belts!

foznice Veteran

foznice

Posted
Posted

with the tools I have the powersteering is a long and frustrating experience... I've always had to take out the IC pipe as well but then the PS lines still get in the way of my ratchet..

I think that a small mini ratchet would be ideal in this case, except I don't have one... so i just use the ring spanner to crack or get tighty tight, then stick a 12mil socket on the end and either pushing or pulling on the pump (to ease your turning ability) tighten or loosen the bolt with your fingeres... If that makes any sense at all.

  • 2 weeks later...
THENIG Community Regular

THENIG

Posted
Posted

just stumbled across this post, i had the same problem a couple of weeks ago, asking friends if its a straight forward job 2 change PS belt, 10min they say, very straight forward. OBVIOUSLY they had never changed a belt on a 32 with standard IC, not sure if you said yours did, no other way of getting at that tensioning bolt with a ring spanner unless you have hands the size of a 3y.o. Break the bead of the IC piping with a big blunt flathead screwdriver, mine tooka bit of rocking it back and forward 2 break the seal, obviously you know getting the right tension on the belt is critical for longevity, don't just give it 1 extra turn 'to be safe' you will load up and scrub out the carrier bearing at the front of the PS pump, better 2 adjust a slipping belt then replacing the whole pump 6mths down the track me thinks. I've heard people say a 1/4 of a turn once its tight of you dont have a proper belt tension measuring device, Do you need 2 allow for the belt to stretch a bit?? Im sure there is a method 4 measuring the tension with a flat edge on the pulleys and a ruler pressed down in the middle 2 measure slack then plugging it into a formula. Eh..

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I actually worked it all out. I did the PS from the top and got everything off and then on. I found getting at the adjustment bolt was near impossible. So essentially I used wear and dirt on the bolt as a guide to adjustment and simply held the PS in place then tightened. Not the best, but its not loose and not easy to tighten it too much & doesn't make any noises. I did some rough tension tests and it seemed ok.

As for the rest they are quite easy once you have sussed out the PS.

Case closed. :) thx for every1s advice...most of it was handy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...