Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only reason i asked is that i bought Volk TE37's which are 9.5" wide... As i wanted the extra bite for the power my car makes... Plus of course the extra wider wheel base in terms of track use...

It just seems that allot of people are doing spacers so they can use a cheaper rims and achieve either a flush look with the guards or they want the wider wheel base...

Personally i reckon you cannot beat ray's rims to the offset that suits your application, spacers scare me...

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok didnt feel the need to read the whole thread but read enough to get the idea.

My parents own a tyre store here in Townsville which i used to work at. The law states that a spacer to be legal MUST be fixed to either the hub or back of the wheel. So slip on spacer ARE illegal. As far as wether spacers cause shakes or not, yes 99% of them do. but sometimes it is fixableish, but takes alot of time and a shit load of mucking around, and balancing the whell 300 times is not going to fix it. The reason being is that they (spacers) make the whole assembly (of tyre and wheel) out of round, if you jack up one corner of the car and spin the wheel you will get a high spot, this IS what causes the shake 99% of the time. But please also note that poor quality wheels that require hub rings to take up the the area where the centre hole in the wheels is not a snug fit will do exactly the same thing, and believe it or not so do poor quality tyres. Trust me i used to fix these problems every day of the week. Also there is a miss conception the wheel alignment fixes shaking problems....WRONG. A wheel alighment is there to adjust your cars wheel geometry ie caster, camber, toe, SAI etc hence the name wheel ALIGNMENT not wheel BALANCE!

Cheers Daniel

Which States Law are u quoting? In QLD it is illegal to fit spacers of any kind unless they come factory...which apparently some euro sports cars do.

Insurance companies will insure you for anything from an engine conversion to an FMIC install...but try telling them you run spacers???

Well I have had some success with changing to better quality slip on spacers.

I was using ones similar to these...

4f_1_b.JPG

And invested in a Just Jap set, which as you can see are a much tighter fit with way more contact on the hub...

5mmspacers5stud.jpg

The difference is significant! I dare say if I could fine some bolt on spacers in the size I want it would be better again.

Well I have had some success with changing to better quality slip on spacers.

I was using ones similar to these...

4f_1_b.JPG

And invested in a Just Jap set, which as you can see are a much tighter fit with way more contact on the hub...

5mmspacers5stud.jpg

The difference is significant! I dare say if I could fine some bolt on spacers in the size I want it would be better again.

But the thing is the wheel still isnt supported by the hub. Thats the point of having the lip on the inside such as mine have. Which if its anything under about 15mm is the best your going to get.

Qld laws, If you fix the spacer to the back of the wheel it is considered part of the wheel. Unless the law has changed in the last 11 months.

can you fix the spacer to the wheels with 5 wheels studs and nuts?

they are strong enough to hold the wheel in place, they must surely be able to sandwich a little spacer

:P bloody politicians will keep changing to rules to keep them occupied while acheiving nothing!!!

From my simple understanding, it sounds like fixed spacers; that is, ones with studs fixed to them; are the way to go.

I can see that if you fit spacers larger than 7mm, you put a stress on your STOCK studs because you essentially use 7mm less of the stud which, im no engineer, could potentially cause the wheel to get damaged/out of balance/break/fall off.... something along the lines.

I think the reason why there could be confusion in the law, and I HAVEN'T seen the modification sheet made by QLD GOVT, is because, to make it safe they need to make it clear the easy way and say they are illegal.

To me the fixed spacer idea, as long as they are of good quality, is great. To a certain size of fixed spacer, i can not see why using it would be bad at all, and of course as long as a mechanic/engineer sees it as safe.

=)

dangerous daveo, where did you get yours done? they are quality, i wouldn't mind getting some made up if they don't cost too much?

currently i'm using some crappy 5mm slip ons due to the wheel not clearing the strut, i also have a ring in the center of the hub to make them "more hub centric".... however, no vibrations/rattles even during highway/mountain driving. i haven't had a wheel alignment since i put the wheels on, and running -2 camber on the front lol

As mentioned now a few times in the thread...

"Wheel Revoultions" made them up. They were $70 each. Just go down with one of your wheel so they can measure everything up so its nice and snug. And if you havent already GET LONGER STUDS. Its a small cost, about half that of the spacers probably including a mechanic to do it all.

  • 1 year later...

I hate them, but I've got them....... And beware of ordering wheels from those "big" wheel companies in Sydney. I told them what car they were going on and was told they would fit no problems!! Bullshyt!! Wheels arrived, put them on the front and in the end they required a 7mm spacer to clear the brakes. Rang the "big" shop and complained and they said that if I paid to send them back, I could have a refund.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...