Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tried the search function?

There is more than enough information on this forum for you to make your own mind up.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=autronic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=autronic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=54702&hl=

And the above are just the Autronic ones.

PowerFC threads are a dime a dozen

I am sorry, as a long term user of both Autronic (BMW SuperTourers and Commondoor V8Supercars) and Power FC's (Hondas and Nissans) I hardly think my advice is one sided.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

i had the pwoer fc on my car, and although it was great for a plug in ecu and was working great, till it got to the point where basically my engine had nothing stock left in it, i switched to an AUTRONIC SM4 although alot pricier than the power fc, i cant say i would ever use another ecu, the autronic is absolutley awesome

ben...

I am sorry, as a long term user of both Autronic (BMW SuperTourers and Commondoor V8Supercars) and Power FC's (Hondas and Nissans) I hardly think my advice is one sided.

:D cheers :D

Sydneykid, I apologize if the comments I have made on the PFC vs Autronic matter may have seemed as if it was directed to you. It wasn't! Nor am I questioning your vast experience. I have made general statements about this issue because pretty much everyone on this forum believe the only option is a PFC. There are only a hand full of people using Autronic compared to the majority of PFC users on this forum so obviously the advice that is going to be given is going to be very biased.

Just to make it clear, my last post was not directed to you it was a general observation!

Everyone should know that an autronic is a better ECU.

All the power FC is a stock ECU which can be programed that allows a boost controller and allows you to use bigger injectors.

I use a Power FC myself (and have no issues with it and thing they are a great ECU) but if anyone wants to swap for a autronic - PM me =)

Its all about money these days and the Power FC wins when it comes to buying and installing the unit.

Sydneykid, I apologize if the comments I have made on the PFC vs Autronic matter may have seemed as if it was directed to you. It wasn't! Nor am I questioning your vast experience. I have made general statements about this issue because pretty much everyone on this forum believe the only option is a PFC. There are only a hand full of people using Autronic compared to the majority of PFC users on this forum so obviously the advice that is going to be given is going to be very biased.

Just to make it clear, my last post was not directed to you it was a general observation!

Sydneykid, I apologize if the comments I have made on the PFC vs Autronic matter may have seemed as if it was directed to you. It wasn't! Nor am I questioning your vast experience. I have made general statements about this issue because pretty much everyone on this forum believe the only option is a PFC. There are only a hand full of people using Autronic compared to the majority of PFC users on this forum so obviously the advice that is going to be given is going to be very biased.

Just to make it clear, my last post was not directed to you it was a general observation!

No problems

:( cheers :D

i prefer autronic. but.. need a trigger disc for the crank angle sensor.

power fc. your relying on airflow meters. which i hate. and most of the time there 10yrs old.

powerfc is a plug in.

autronic has better contol of injectors (resolution) and the software is heaps easy to use.

power fc is a good unit that is made in korea. (most "jap" ecus are and that includes oem ecu's.)

i just prefer autronic. at the end of the day it all down to the tune

i prefer autronic. but.. need a trigger disc for the crank angle sensor.

power fc. your relying on airflow meters. which i hate. and most of the time there 10yrs old.

powerfc is a plug in.

autronic has better contol of injectors (resolution) and the software is heaps easy to use.

power fc is a good unit that is made in korea. (most "jap" ecus are and that includes oem ecu's.)

i just prefer autronic. at the end of the day it all down to the tune

What ECU are made in korea? I thought only KEFICO (Korean EFI Company) was the only oem ecu made in Korea. Most japanese ecu's are made in Japan aren't they? ie I thought Nippon DENSO were contracted by APEXI to make hte PFC just like standard nissan ECU's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...