Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just sent my R34 GTT turbo off to GCG to get highflowed. Being doing abit of research and the max power is around 270rwkw from a R33 with cams. Mine also has cams ( tomei Poncams 260 ) and since the R34 has slightly larger exhaust housing... Is it safe to say that i should net 280rwkw with all the supporting fruit and a good tune? Now that would be pretty dam impressive from a highflow!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131376-r34-gcg-highflow/
Share on other sites

A 10rwkw variance can be attributed to Dyno more than anything dude.

The figure will be between 250 & 270rwkw depending on the happieness of the dyno.

Thats around what most people get, so thats what you will get. I dont think you'll make more than anyone else when you have all the same gear :O

If you do only make 250rwkw, doesnt mean there is something wrong (i can see you posting a whats wrong" thread if thats what it makes)

Just remember its a dyno, tuning mainly is the use so results of a 15rwkw variance are not uncommon... so aslong as you get 250-270, she will go quite nicely i think :D

Okies all dyno read diff..And many factors contribute to a final dyno reading i guess. But a highflowed R34 will produce more then a R33 highflow right? surley the bigger rear would make a difference to the reading after taking into account diff tune and dyno machines?

I believe the R33 your refering to making 270rwkw was with cams and the bigger vg30/r34 exhaust housing so effectively when you highflow yours it will be exactly the same size turbo.

as R31Nismoid was saying, the happiness of the dyno could already be the 10-15rwkw difference.

Some of my experiences;

Example 1

R34GTT with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and standard Neo cams = 253 rwkw.

R34GTT with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 260 Tomei Poncams = 265 rwkw.

Gain from changing cams = 12 rwkw (up to ~20 rwkw at some rpm points)

R34GTT with R34GTT GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 260 Tomei Poncams = 275 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 10 rwkw

That’s my R34GTT on our race team dyno, which is most certainly not “happy”.

Example 2

R33TST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 260 rwkw.

R33GTST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow with VG30 turbine cover and 256 Tomei Poncams = 273 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw

Ian’s R33GTST on another dyno, since results collate, most likely not “happy” either.

You can draw your own conclusions from the above.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 2 weeks later...
Some of my experiences;

Example 1

R34GTT with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and standard Neo cams = 253 rwkw.

R34GTT with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 260 Tomei Poncams = 265 rwkw.

Gain from changing cams = 12 rwkw (up to ~20 rwkw at some rpm points)

R34GTT with R34GTT GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 260 Tomei Poncams = 275 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 10 rwkw

That’s my R34GTT on our race team dyno, which is most certainly not “happy”.

Example 2

R33TST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 260 rwkw.

R33GTST with R323GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 273 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw

Ian’s R33GTST on another dyno, since results collate, most likely not “happy” either.

You can draw your own conclusions from the above.

:D cheers ;)

SK,

in example 2, am i correct in reading that you made more power with a R32GTST GCG Ball Bearing hi-flow turbo?

please clarify.

SK,

in example 2, am i correct in reading that you made more power with a R32GTST GCG Ball Bearing hi-flow turbo?

please clarify.

Sorry, trying to type too fast

I have fixed the original post, I think that answers your question.

At what boost level were those power levels reached SK?

1.3 and 1.4 bar respectively.

Dropped from 1.5 bar when we ported the cylinder head, less restrictions = more power at lower boost

:D cheers ;)

Sorry, trying to type too fast

I have fixed the original post, I think that answers your question.

1.3 and 1.4 bar respectively.

Dropped from 1.5 bar when we ported the cylinder head, less restrictions = more power at lower boost

:D cheers ;)

hey SK,

thanks, that makes sense.

hey, actually, again in example 2, you state the same mods although with different power levels, that being from a different turbine cover. what turbine cover was that?

Example 2

R33TST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 260 rwkw.

R33GTST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 273 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw

they are all rated the same :rant:

i think the housing difference is very minor, just in the opening to the dump and stuff.

I think Bass Junky compared them... or was it someone else

Yer I did some measurements some time ago now, the R34/VG30 housing from memory was ~5mm wider.

I find it interesting how HKS tend to ran narrow skinny housings with a greater height where as the stock and garrett housings are flatter but wider.

hey SK,

thanks, that makes sense.

hey, actually, again in example 2, you state the same mods although with different power levels, that being from a different turbine cover. what turbine cover was that?

Example 2

R33TST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 260 rwkw.

R33GTST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 273 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw

I edited it again to clarify, I thought the "Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw" told the story but it now reads a bit easier.

:rant: cheers :O

PS, my problem is so many posts and such slow typing speed.

Gary,

I'm curious...

The R34 and VG30 turbo's I had sitting here a while back were identical in general size not looking at comp wheel machining as the R34 comp wheel was considerably larger.

My understanding is that once the VG30 and R34GTT turbine covers are machined out for the GCG (high flow) turbine they are exactly the same.

:rant: cheers :O

Some of my experiences;

Example 1

R34GTT with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and standard Neo cams = 253 rwkw.

R34GTT with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 260 Tomei Poncams = 265 rwkw.

Gain from changing cams = 12 rwkw (up to ~20 rwkw at some rpm points)

R34GTT with R34GTT GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 260 Tomei Poncams = 275 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 10 rwkw

That’s my R34GTT on our race team dyno, which is most certainly not “happy”.

Example 2

R33TST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow and 256 Tomei Poncams = 260 rwkw.

R33GTST with R33GTST GCG Ball Bearing High flow with VG30 turbine cover and 256 Tomei Poncams = 273 rwkw.

Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw

Ian’s R33GTST on another dyno, since results collate, most likely not “happy” either.

You can draw your own conclusions from the above.

:rant: cheers :O

SK what was the lag difference between the stock high flow and the one with the larger exhaust housing?

staring boost rpm and full boost rpm

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...