Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got my r33 back from having the water pump and timing belt replaced

now the car is making a whiny rattling noise that was never there before, its worse when its idling and just sounds like its running crap

was thinking maybe they did the tensioner too tight or something?

anyone got any ideas? and could i be doing any damage to the engine driving it like this? :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131393-just-replaced-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

Theres not a lot to chose from for bearing noise, cambelt tensioners or alternator/powersteering pump/air con. You can rule out the latter by removing the appropriate belts and seeing if the noise is still there or by listening for bearing noise on each unit.

Chances are it is the cambelt tensioners if the cars done reasonable kms.

Before you got the belt replaced it would have been stretched making the load that is on the cambelt tensioners less and hiding any wear.

Now that you have a tight new belt and tensioners reset there will be more force on the bearings which will show up as a rattling noise if the bearings are on their way out.

And just to add, never had any probs with GATES belts, they make pretty good belts, Nissan don't make their own anyway.

Timing belt? Mine whined a little bit after replacing the idler, tensioner, and belt. (all stock replacements).

It might have been tight, but in the first month i'd imagine that the belt would slacken off a bit, and you'd have to retension it. Mine has smoothed out and is fine now (4 months since change).

Only other thing that comes to mind is if they didn't do the tensioner up properly... the belt will slap against the cover, and whine as it slips past the bearing.

Remove the top-half inspection plate, and check that the belts seem really tight.. maybe even shine a torch down there to check it.

is it like a high pitched noise? (like its there when u start it, and when u press a bit of gas or if ur stationery) if it is, then maybe the belts are a bit tight - I had the problem when mine was changed - its a quick fix 15 minute job

Take it back.

Did you get tensioner and idler changed when the timing belt was done?

It may be air-con tensioner bearings or others, but there should be no noises.

hmmm, well i bought the parts and only got a new belt, so id have to check that out..

Its probably a gates belt! ask them what kind they used. gates belts are crap! stick to genuine. That is if all your other cam gear is stock. who did it?

yeah all stock and mmm yes it is a gates racing belt, the blue one...

Theres not a lot to chose from for bearing noise, cambelt tensioners or alternator/powersteering pump/air con. You can rule out the latter by removing the appropriate belts and seeing if the noise is still there or by listening for bearing noise on each unit.

Chances are it is the cambelt tensioners if the cars done reasonable kms.

Before you got the belt replaced it would have been stretched making the load that is on the cambelt tensioners less and hiding any wear.

Now that you have a tight new belt and tensioners reset there will be more force on the bearings which will show up as a rattling noise if the bearings are on their way out.

And just to add, never had any probs with GATES belts, they make pretty good belts, Nissan don't make their own anyway.

thanks for that, well its done 113000, so yeah will suss it out

You might have a baby caught in the belt, check under the timing cover for small fingers or toes.

LOL...quite the comedian

Hey! I saw your car at RE the other night when I went to pick up my car! Rays a good guy, he will fix up the problem.

hey, yeah he is, i actually asked about it after i started it up while i was still there and heard the noise, he said it should be fine and could last till next service, but yeah i just dont want my car sounding like that for the next 5000kms so id rather have it fixed, watever it is and yeah dunno wat to do yet

Sounds like the belt might just be a bit tight - its often the case with the new belts (im assuming here its the same problem that I had). It would die out in a couple of months - but it is quite embaressing driving a hot car when it makes a noise like that.

Edited by emsta2003

yep it is kinda high pitched (and very annoying) and its worse on idle/stationery and yeah my initial thought was its too tight...mite be easy but i cant fix it myself though cos i have no idea wat im doing lol

i had a look and the belts are like super tight, i cant twist them at all

if its to tight (very common mistake) it makes a wir wir wir wir noise

if its to loose it makes a flap flap flap noise.

the belt tension adjustment needs to be as follows.

with the belt on and the tensioner not done up...wind the motor over to take up the slack in the belt. then simply lock off the tensioner. (thats what the spring is for lol :) )

hope that helps :)

yep it is kinda high pitched (and very annoying) and its worse on idle/stationery and yeah my initial thought was its too tight...mite be easy but i cant fix it myself though cos i have no idea wat im doing lol

i had a look and the belts are like super tight, i cant twist them at all

Sounds like what I had after my timing belt was changed - its a 10-15 min job. Main thing is its nothing serious

if its just loosening the belt a bit, it can be done without having to remove the whole front. There is a cover underneath the car which has to be removed (can be done while the car is on the hoist), then its just a matter of using a spanner or socket spanner to adjust the belt.

Well, thats what happened to mine anyway...and there hasnt been any troubles so far...

I think your confusing the aircon belt with the timing belt, or at least one of the other two that run off the harmonic damper. The timing belt is located behind the timing covers which do need to be removed inorder to adjust the one tensioner which is also behind the covers.

The only idler that can whine/wir/squeel is the aircon idler which is obviously outside of the covers and sits below the aircon compressor.

and whoever said gates belts are shit is a moron :(

Edited by r33_racer
The only idler that can whine/wir/squeel is the aircon idler which is obviously outside of the covers and sits below the aircon compressor.

Ah - that might be it - yeah they didnt remove anything when they readjusted the tension..:(

  • 1 year later...

k gates racing timing belt does make noise but when mine got done it was found that 2 days later somewhere i have a dry bearing when it starts up it make a really scary grinding noise then goes no probs after 2 secs but as it off the road no big worries atm being fixed soon and yeah they "rigoli" over tension the belt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
×
×
  • Create New...