Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lovechunks - please avail yourself of the Forum Rules. If you are posting negative comments, do not include business names. Vijay

Hi to anyone who reads this. I just saw a freinds two cars that he had ordered from [name removed] :( To say that they were disapointed would be a masive understatement!

Both cars came in damaged on nearly every panel. One would not even start. Both were heavily modified in all the wrong ways, they were missing parts as well. How they got complianced and registered I don't even want to know.

In the past I have bought in cars of my own and only through a reputabe Auction group or buyer.

I'm not sure these two cars are indicative of all their imports but these cars were definatly NOT sourced from Auction.

I'm surprised they were not crushed in Japan but obviously a Japanese Wrecker maybe? thought he could sell them to some dodgy Australian Asshole for about $500?

So a word of warning, buy at Auction from someone you can trust. If your buying before you see leave a 10% deposit and no more.You have to pay shipping and other duties so why not get a decent car? Don't get taken and end up with a junker.

It really pisses me off to think that my buddy was really excited about his new car then ended up disapointed. He doesnt have enough money to be ripped off on a car. So when some DICK says he can save you a bit of money on an import please think twice :(

Edited by raz0r$harP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/
Share on other sites

Hi to anyone who reads this. I just saw a freinds two cars that he had ordered from ^%$^%& :( To say that they were disapointed would be a masive understatement!

Both cars came in damaged on nearly every panel. One would not even start. Both were modified in all the wrong ways, they were missing parts as well. How they got complianced and registered I don't even want to know.

In the past I have bought in cars of my own and only through a reputabe Auction group or buyer.

I'm not sure these two cars are indicative of all their imports but these cars were definatly NOT sourced from Auction.

I'm surprised they were not crushed in Japan but obviously a Japanese Wrecker maybe? thought he could sell them to some dodgy Australian Asshole for about $500?

So a word of warning, buy at Auction from someone you can trust. If your buying before you see leave a 10% deposit and no more.You have to pay shipping and other duties so why not get a decent car? Don't get taken and end up with a junker.

It really pisses me off to think that my buddy was really excited about his new car then ended up disapointed. He doesnt have enough money to be ripped off on a car. So when some DICK says he can save you a bit of money on an import please think twice :(

Edited by Lovechunks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2431229
Share on other sites

Looks like you mate was too tight to pay the $250 to get the car mechanically inspected before payment was made. The importer in question doesn’t choose the cars for you, they give you the tools and options to choose what car you want. In the end it was your mate’s decision to choose those 2 cars.

Don’t talk crap about a reputable businesses that help a lot of people out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2431545
Share on other sites

Lol, i didnt pay to have my car inspected, and its fine :D

I chose it, with the importers help, they didnt tell me to buy it.

It ran perfectly the first time i started it before it had been complied, and the only stuff i got done was preventitive maintenance (timing belt, water pump etc) :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2431551
Share on other sites

I've had to edit the name of the buisness out as per forum rules, sorry. There is nothing more to this story. Some have obviously had good dealings with the company which is great. But having said that you can take the above as a cautionary tale, that not all dealings are perfect, far from it.

The person who bought these cars is a good honest person who picked two cars from $%$#%^'s contacts and was sold lemons. Not every buyer knows what they are doing and he may have been a little nieve but he was shown pictures and given a report on both vehicles while they were in Japan, he then handed over money and got crap!

So a word to the unwise. Be extremly carefull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2431744
Share on other sites

I insinuated that thats how much the car probably cost in Japan to buy from some dodgy dealer. Most cars this bad are crushed in Japan. When the 15 year old import rule came in some enterprising people dicided to keep a lot of bad cars that otherwise would have been crushed. Mx5's Celsior's R32's Rx7 etc. I know of a few that were for sale for around $500-$1000. Really cheap! They were then bought over here and sold for market value which was a decent profit.

The above friend payed very good money for his car and still got a lemon.

Why didnt you research on the business before buying a car??

Why don't you read the post before commenting??

Edited by Lovechunks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2431781
Share on other sites

huh? what do you mean there's nothing more to the story, there's bugger all you've told us other than the cars were "crap"? What cars are they? What grade were they from auction? how much did they pay in yen? They may have paid bugger all and gotten what they paid for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2431884
Share on other sites

I have just spoken to a representative from #%^%#$# and am sending them pic's and details from both the cars. They seem eager to sort this mess out as am I. I probably shouldn't say anything else until they have seen what I'm complaining about, he seemed pretty nice on the phone. Will tell you how it turns out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131402-import/#findComment-2432993
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems,  could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress.  After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome.  Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4   Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.
    • That could be drilled, ground and welded. Would stop it progressing and leaking. But that block shouldn't be pushed very hard, as what you see there is a massive warning sign. But that fix also isn't going to happen properly with the engine in the car, and assembled. So you're looking at anew block if you're doing all that work anyway.
    • It's not as simple as it is being made out to be. It s not hard, but there are things that have to be done. Am busy right now, but will try to essay later.
    • Pinout is different to my knowledge, but you should confirm to be sure. Also you will need to adjust the VQ table in Nistune to suit. I would still recommend sticking with recirculating BOVs, I'm not sure if the R35 card MAF will fully resolve stalling caused by reversion/throttle lift.
    • What issues are those? Previous owner said it wants to stall sometimes. We did test drive and it was nice and smooth so it will be sporadic or idk. And if i just change MAF(the sensor to R35 version) it should be better? And as i asked...is it like "plug n play" with oem MAF from R34?  This is a MAF from R35 right?
×
×
  • Create New...