Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm looking at the tiptronic buttons on the steering wheel and manual shifter?

yeah what's with that. is that the nismo auto shifter stan was talking about?

edit: actually where's your steering wheel tiptronic activation switch on the centre console? you convert to manual?

btw.. stan where's my pics :P

nice dyno ab.

Edited by Howie

The secret is out!

I collected the parts, Greg from Autosport Engineering did my manual conversion. Great guy, nothing is a problem. In and out in 3 days. Not expensive either.

I've got a Jim Berry rebuilt R33 GTR clutch in there.

PowerFC was today tuned by Mark at Hills Motorsport. The lower line on the graph is before the ECU change. The upper is the after obviously. He spent a lot of time on it and you can tell. It's much smoother than the other ECU and no big clouds of black smoke out the back any more. I forgot to get a graph of the AFR's but they were off the scale before.

I'm still running low boost as I have run out of injector head room. I will get it onto a Dyno Dynamics dyno (hopefully one I've been on before) at some stage to give people a more easily tranferable idea of the power. Of course I'll also head out to the strip at some stage.

Does anyone have any comments on the power curve?

For all those that have pm'd me and msn'd me this morning it cost $1500 for Greg to do the conversion. I supplied the parts. I wrecked a GTT to get the parts. If I hadn't done that I would suggest that people use an R33 gearbox because they use push type clutches rather than the pull type that the R34 box has. Push type clutches are always cheaper than the equivalent pull type clutch.

For general reference, R32's and R33GTST have push type and R33GTR and R34's have pull type.

I used an R33 GTR clutch and got it rebuilt by Jim Berry - check the drivetrain thread for his details.

The car ran fine on the stock ecu but it now has a PowerFC in it.

1) Stop talking about our knobs guys :(

2) Adam; great result!!! Very happy for you that it's all together now...

3) Anyone know what the hell a MDX dyno is?

4) Go BOB!

5) About time you changed the steering wheel over I think...

6) Come help me finish my car off before the tune next week :O

yeah about time the slusher went out the window! lol. just digging.

that is a larg amount of power there! especially for stock injectors.

graph looks weird as, I dont really know what to make of the curve. I've never really looked at an mdx before.

Damn

thats pertty big power I can see them 12's droping to 11's . I think I'm gonna havta pull me finger out and get the new 32 finished as a matter fact start on it .You do know you have to move the gearstick now not wait for it to move itself :-)

Cheers Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...