Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

if you want to shorten in to get the best response, change to a top mount cooler. you will cut a fair bit of piping out, but will get major heat soak.

also for those interested in power loss from aircon, at a dyno comp i was turning off the aircon and the dyno guy started telling me about a toyota coaster (small bus) that the aircon took 17hp out of the motor. i know cars don't take that much, but we used to have a subaru sports wagon and it made a huge difference (but it was a really gutless car. 62kw at the flywheel, and weighed about as much as a skyline). i'd say it'd probably take about 5hp.

i just compared the v mount setup to the standard setup, and the piping length difference is simple due to the tighter angles on the cooler. if you tightened the angles of the bends on the cooler posted by EXAUNV then you would get the same affect. also using the aftermarket plenum gets rid of some piping, but makes up for it in extra plenum length.

there is an illusion to that with aircon, without aircon dyno. the illusion is that the aircon run was done second, and as most people know, turbo cars generally dyno the highest on the first run due to heat soak. and it was done in feb, which isn't the coldest month of the year. my mates built silvia lost a about 10hp every run due to heat soak at a dyno comp on a hot day.

Edited by mad082
And if you notice a throttle difference with an extra bend or two, i'll hand you a medal :(

Cause you wont notice it at all IMO.

Im with you on this one. As long as the piping is kinda right in the first place...i dont think there will be any noticable difference.

...but the overall idea is to have the radiator sitting on a 45 degree angle and your intercooler sitting on a 45 degree angle, the overall the advantage is that the pipes are shorter, and neither your intercooler or radiator are getting less air flow. The disadvantage to this setup is heat soak.

But they do get less airflow, the air has to either go up through the intercooler or down thru the radiator. It does mean though that the lsioghtly heated air that has passed through the intercoole risnt used to cool the radiator. But thats not a biggy anyway as the radiator can be sized accordingly.

The main reasons in racing are that you get better weight distribution as ther heavy (full of coolant) radiator sits lower in the car. It also helps in race cars as when 'rubbing is racing", well with the IC behind the raditor support panel it is not going to be punctured meaning loss of power.

Frankly im surprised that ppl who are concerned about this do not grab an STI cooler. Weld some sheet and baffles over it. Top mount the thing and run a water to air intercooler. You get stable inlet temps. With water you get the chance to actually lower the inlet temps below ambient (ICE BOX etc) which you can do when using ambient air as a coolign medium.

Depending if you clock your turbo housing correctly, you basically end up with a single bend and less then 5" of cooler piping. That woudl be a dramatic enough a change to actually made noticable differences when driving the car.

There are of course disadvantages, being the weight of pumps, water and the reservoir. Introducing a pump that can fail, and puts an addiional load on your electrics...but i think a top mount water to air cooler is about ideal for a road car that gets raced from time to time.

...oh and ithat engne bay pic a 350Z??? Why on earth would you rip out a gem of an engine to fit an SR20??? cRaZy Japs :)

Im with you on this one. As long as the piping is kinda right in the first place...i dont think there will be any noticable difference.

But they do get less airflow, the air has to either go up through the intercooler or down thru the radiator. It does mean though that the lsioghtly heated air that has passed through the intercoole risnt used to cool the radiator. But thats not a biggy anyway as the radiator can be sized accordingly.

The main reasons in racing are that you get better weight distribution as ther heavy (full of coolant) radiator sits lower in the car. It also helps in race cars as when 'rubbing is racing", well with the IC behind the raditor support panel it is not going to be punctured meaning loss of power.

Frankly im surprised that ppl who are concerned about this do not grab an STI cooler. Weld some sheet and baffles over it. Top mount the thing and run a water to air intercooler. You get stable inlet temps. With water you get the chance to actually lower the inlet temps below ambient (ICE BOX etc) which you can do when using ambient air as a coolign medium.

Depending if you clock your turbo housing correctly, you basically end up with a single bend and less then 5" of cooler piping. That woudl be a dramatic enough a change to actually made noticable differences when driving the car.

There are of course disadvantages, being the weight of pumps, water and the reservoir. Introducing a pump that can fail, and puts an addiional load on your electrics...but i think a top mount water to air cooler is about ideal for a road car that gets raced from time to time.

...oh and ithat engne bay pic a 350Z??? Why on earth would you rip out a gem of an engine to fit an SR20??? cRaZy Japs :)

Many valid points.

P.S the engine bay is my 4 door R32 (dedicated drift car), I wish it were a 350z.

EDIT: you obviously mean the other engine bay.. my bad :(

maplesauzer-img600x450-1152544657noya-1.jpg

Greg

Edited by EXAUNV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...