Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

just a quick question on a car. My mate have bought a car (and is now in vic) from nsw, it is a mr2 mk1 supercharged. Now it was reg'd in NSW, doesnt have a compliance plate, or a vin stamped on the body. Now VIC rta wont change the rego over due to the lack of these two things.

Now i was hoping you guys could give me some advice to pass onto my friend, ie:what happens now, best way to clear it up....

thanks again

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131657-no-compliance-plate/
Share on other sites

AW11's would have come in under 15 year rule, so no compliance plate is issued.

It should have a VIN on the body or rivetted onto a plate and an import approval for when it was imported though. If it dosen't have a VIN stamped on there, then take it to a VACC workshop and give them the old reg papers and the import approval. The VIN of the car is usually 6U90000XXXXXXXXXX where the X's are made up using the car's original japanese VIN (which is less than the required 17 for the australian system). In any case the import approval should have your original VIN and your australian VIN (as this document is the link). The workshop should be able to stamp your car if the documents are all in order.

funnily enough the last 2 cars I imported and had complied under the 15yo rule both HAD compliance plates issued, and affixed to the body, and both had a seperate little plate with the new aussie full VIN.

hey guys thanks for the quick response,

my mate has an old rego paper from nsw from it was last reg'd with the vin number on it, but he cant find a vin on the car. So he has the new aussie for the veh, but its not stamped on the car.

So a) if he cant get the import approval what is the best thing to do

and b) will just rego papers with the vin on it be worth anything??

Thanks again

DOTARS can issue a copy of the import approval if you need that. I would be surprised if one state accepted another state's rego when the actual car doesn't prove what it is.

Every car is AUS needs an AUS Vin before it is registered, even my rally import car has one RALLYxxxxxxxxx

15 yr old imports aren't regulated on a national level like the SEVS scheme, so the rules are pretty adhoc and at the discretion of the registry/workshop.

Even the rules for compliance vary between states and engineers... eg in VIC you don't need to change the seatbelts, you can retain 15 yr old japanese rubbish, wheras in NSW you have to turf em and get the ugly taxi buckles.

when i took my ceffy in to reg it in NSW (having been complianced in VIC) with all the right paperwork, I was told to go see a engineer on the list they had, and he told me I needed to change my seatbelts, even though the car already had been registered in another state and had registration history for over a year.

It is not too odd for vehicle imported under the old 15yr rule not to have a new VIN issued, as this was only needed for vehicles manufactured from 1989. It is acually quite uncommon as there was only a 2yr window for this to happen.

However your vehicle should have some sort of engineers’ plate riveted to the chassis, usually in the engine bay. Or at least an engineers' report stating the work done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...