Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In a bid to archive this info myself or to have it as a sticky, it would be nice to have as much info as possible on gearboxs. Which ones are interchangeable? Ie apparently rb20de = rb20det. Things like which ones pull and push type. Gearbox gear widths, bearing diameters, etc. HP rating through experience (torque rating??).

Add please.

RB20DE

RB20DET

Same as RB25DE box ( i think)

Same as SR boxes too i think

RB25DE

RB25DET

RB26DETT

RB30E

RB30ET

GTST4 box

umm. ok.

FS5W71B L SERIES,CA (PRE TWINCAM)FJ20,

FS5W71C single syncro. RB20e,rb20de,rb30e,REDTOP RB20,LATE FJ20ETrb25de,ca18de,sr20de

FS5W71C twin syncro RB20DET,SR20DET,LATE CA18DET

FS5R30A SINGLE SYNCHRO.vg20det,vg30e vg30et,rb30et

FS5R30A TWIN SYNCHRO, VG30DET,RB25DET,RB26DETT.

fs5r30a pull clutch. 33gtr late 32gtr,rb25 neo

upgrades..

FJ20ET TO RB BOX. elongate top bellhousing bolts :P inward about 6mm each.

fj20 tight ass secondhand box replacement. anny l series box or ca box (aka bluebird box)will fit. you just need to swap the bellhousing. as the angle is oposite.

early fj use a small bearing on the countershaft front. will need to be swapped onto the doner gearset.

rb 20 upgrade. a 25 box will bolt up. the tailshaft yoke is differant and the gearbox x member needs to be moved backward 50mm aprox.

vg upgrade. swap internals from rb25det

rb30 upgrade, as above.

fj20e,lseries,ca18,sr20de rb20e,rb20de use a 225mm push clutch

vg30e,et usus a 240mm push clutch

vg30de uses a 240mm push clutch

sr20det 240mm push clutch

fj20et 240mm push clutch

rb20det all use a 240mm push clutch.

rb25det all uses a 240mm push clutchup to r34 skyline.

rb25det neo uses a 250mm pull clutch

rb26. pre 94 uses a 240mm push clutch

rb26 post 94 usus a 250mm pull clutch

vg30dett uses a 250mm push clutch

not listed is s15 duel mass flywheel clutch. the norm is fitting a s14 clutch and bearing carier.

all 250mm clutches can mix n match,

ie rb25det upgrade is a r33gtr,rb25 neo flywheel with a vg30dett clutch disc atd plate. small mods needed. to rear main seal plate/engine flange plate to clear flywheel.

r34gtr uses the same clutch as the 33 but on a diferant flywheel.

non turbo variants with the small 225mm clutch can swap for the bigger turbo clutch/flywheel asembly of the same engine family.

all 71b,c boxes have the SAME gear sizes. later ones have improved bearings and selectors.

all 30a boxes have the same gear sizes, later ones have bigger bearings and improved synchros,selectors.

thats about all i can come up with atm my head hurts.

Being new to this type of car I have a question for you T04GTR

You being a mechanic and all I'm getting a R33GTR but being a Auto type guy I want to convert it to.

I have been told that a Auto form a Stagea will bolt right up with min probs. Is this the case?

Thanks in Advance

  • 1 month later...
Being new to this type of car I have a question for you T04GTR

You being a mechanic and all I'm getting a R33GTR but being a Auto type guy I want to convert it to.

I have been told that a Auto form a Stagea will bolt right up with min probs. Is this the case?

Thanks in Advance

yep. or 33 gts4 all bolt in :laugh:

question

im aware that the RB20det and RB20de boxes in terms of strength are the same.

difference being the ammount of synchros

if i was to bolt both of these up to my fj20et engine

in terms of drivability what would the difference be..

thanx

twin synchro.

i poped 11 single synchro boxes in my dr30. (i just loved ripping seconds and 3rds) basicly the twin synchro will cop more before it crunches :laugh:

twin synchro.

i poped 11 single synchro boxes in my dr30. (i just loved ripping seconds and 3rds) basicly the twin synchro will cop more before it crunches :)

thanx for the input mate

but i was actually wanted to kno the difference between the N/A RB20 box and the turbo RB20 box in terms of drivability..

not the comparison between the fj20 box and rb20box

cheers

so a 5 speed manual can be converted into a 6 speed for the rb26 98"?

Yes. but you need new clutch/flywheel, new clutch slave/new clutch line. tail shaft modified to suit. and the gearbox too. there are also a few other fiddly things to do to have it all working

  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...