Jump to content
SAU Community

For The Experts!

Daboss
 Share

Recommended Posts

Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
Posted

Question: Is redlining your car a good or bad way to drive it? Let me give the example by redlining I mean shifting at 7000 rpms. I have a 95 r33 gts-t and when i drive it the shifts between 1st and 2nd usually come at 5000 rpms, 2nd and 3rd 5000 rpms, 3rd and 4th 7000 rpms and 4th and 5th 7000rpms. I wanted to kno if this will affect my engine in a negative way. This is not everyday driving just when im in speed mode and want to remind my ride tht she still is a sports car. What do u think good or bad? All answers welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/
Share on other sites
Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
well..as long as u dont do it often it should be ok....

and by the sounds of things, you should be doing about 180 on 4th - 5th - so perhaps take it to the track.....

You are absolutely correct by 4th doing about 5 or 6000rpm the speedometer is maxed out so by 5th it doesnt eve make sense lookin at the speedometer. So does tht mean the cars top speed cannot be measuredby the stock speedometer if so wht is the max speed for a 95 gts-t completely stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2457766
Share on other sites
Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted

Redlining at 7000 RPM = thrashing.

If you thrash your car, dont expect it to last as long.

I drive an auto, when driving normally I let go off the gas at around 2000 RPM... then go back up to 2000 RPM.

Also I never go over 2000 RPM when the car is warming up for the first 10 or so minutes...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2457779
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
You are absolutely correct by 4th doing about 5 or 6000rpm the speedometer is maxed out so by 5th it doesnt eve make sense lookin at the speedometer. So does tht mean the cars top speed cannot be measuredby the stock speedometer if so wht is the max speed for a 95 gts-t completely stock.
I personally think you're a dipshit, with no regards to other peoples safety :). If you want to do such speeds take it to the track, or any other legal motorsport.

Mods please close and remove this topic :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2458533
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
This is not everyday driving just when im in speed mode and want to remind my ride tht she still is a sports car.
I personally think you're a dipshit, with no regards to other peoples safety :). If you want to do such speeds take it to the track, or any other legal motorsport.

Mods please close and remove this topic :laugh:

Agreed..

We are going to see more and more of these incidents/posts as the R33's are becoming dirt cheap now. Affordable for young P platers and the like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2458613
Share on other sites
eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted

its a sports car, and hence it can withstand some redlining - but not all the time. And as the others have said (and as I mentioned), if your ever in the mood to go sick with the speeds - tracks are the best option man. I admit, I am very tempted to take the car to its limits - but not on the roads. I live in Mt waverley (vic) and the traffic here is quite intense - very easy for someone to have a crash get hurt or even die...

So - after all that, if u feel the need for speed - track or drag strip.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2458632
Share on other sites
Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

Hmmm redline? Meaning possible failure and crash increase, hmmm i think someone will come unstuck oneday, and should keep there redlining to the tracks and off the road.

But O/T you should treat your car better than that, just becoz you can do it now and then, doesnt mean sh!t, Your just putting other people including yourself at risk, so aggreed this topic is sorta pointless and should be closed as sending the wrong message to others out there i think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2458757
Share on other sites
james young Apprentice

james young

Posted
Posted

i agree with most of you on here that high speeds should be kept to the track.

as paulr33 said redlining is pointless in a stock r33 as peak power is 6400rpm or so from memory

having said that high speeds should be kept to the track if that situation was right on an open road with no trafic where speed limit is 100 i would probly take it to 160 if it seemed fairly safe, any thing over 160 is rediculus on public roads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2472024
Share on other sites
Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Agreed..

We are going to see more and more of these incidents/posts as the R33's are becoming dirt cheap now. Affordable for young P platers and the like.

It is for the tracks maybe you should ask b4 assuming. And to Al F%$K off you dont kno me asshole.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2475211
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
....................... 3rd and 4th 7000 rpms and 4th and 5th 7000rpms. I wanted to kno if this will affect my engine in a negative way. This is not everyday driving just when im in speed mode and want to remind my ride tht she still is a sports car.
Please explain this, or are you now changing your story :O. That phrase implies that you are doing this on the street. I may not know you but i have only replied to what you wrote, thus you are a FOOL!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2475660
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
Posted
Redlining at 7000 RPM = thrashing.

If you thrash your car, dont expect it to last as long.

I drive an auto, when driving normally I let go off the gas at around 2000 RPM... then go back up to 2000 RPM.

Also I never go over 2000 RPM when the car is warming up for the first 10 or so minutes...

babied hard.

Usually until its warmed up I just make sure the car stays off boost. I usually like to rev it up to about 3gran (off boost). Keeping it below 2000RPM usually puts the motor under more load which i assume is bad for a cold engine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2503983
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
babied hard.

Usually until its warmed up I just make sure the car stays off boost. I usually like to rev it up to about 3gran (off boost). Keeping it below 2000RPM usually puts the motor under more load which i assume is bad for a cold engine

Its not bad for the motor unless your in top gear trying to lug it out of a corner with the motor clearly labouring.

Select the correct gear for the road speed and it will be perfectly fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132577-for-the-experts/#findComment-2504110
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kirby7887
      R32 GTR Lost All Interior Power to IGN Accessories

      By Kirby7887 · Posted

      Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      And gone to a new home  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • MBS206
      Factory oil temp sensor in a RS4V without gauges?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
×
×
  • Create New...