Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am selling a lot of my Skyline brochure collection, including C10, C110, C210, R30, R31, R32, R33, R34 and V35.

Too many to list individually, I've been putting them on ebay but thought some here might be interested too. They are going fast so if you want one get in quick. Feel free to reply here or send me a PM if you're looking for something. Some examples of what I've still got are:

- C10 Skyline 2000GT (repro + genuine)

- C10 Skyline 2000 GT-R (repro)

- C110 Skyline 2000GT

- C110 Skyline 2000 GT-R (repro)

- C210 Skyline 2000GT

- R30 Skyline range

- R30 Skyline RS

- R31 Skyline range

- R31 Skyline GTS-R

- R32 Skyline range

- R32 Skyline GT-R

- R33 Skyline coupe

- R33 Skyline sedan

- R33 Skyline GT-R

- R34 Skyline sedan

- R34 Skyline coupe

- R34 Skyline GT-R

PRICE: $10 to $130. Generally the rarer the more valuable.

Most are in excellent condition, but I also have some junky ones that obviously will be cheaper.

I am on the Gold Coast, you're free to pick up or I can post to anywhere in the world for cost-price. I'll accept most methods of payment - cash, money order, bank deposit, personal cheque, paypal...

Edited by Alfadog
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132648-jdm-skyline-car-brochures/
Share on other sites

OK, I have about 100 here and they range from $10 to $130 ... and I'm not going to sort through them all to give individual prices.

But ok, so I need to include a ballpark figure. Done. Sorry!

Mr. "Sh*tbox", the ones I gave were examples. I have other R31 ones, but most are gone now. I have a range brochure, GTS, GTS-R and a couple more. PM me if interested and I'll give you a detailed list and prices as I have done for everyone else ;)

Thanks



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...