Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when spending that much money gets you a fe wmore MPG which only saves maybe 20 cents a fillup...say 3 dollars

where is that 3 dolalrs going to go instead?

to an extra drink, an extra burger..

id rather just get the good gas and cut out a burger personally

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3063040
Share on other sites

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

actually its a fair bit more than that. As 98 octane is usually 10-13c a litre more expensive than 91 RON (that works out to 40-50c more per gallon to you Grant) and then you calculate how much extra you are spending over a 12 month period it adds up to a basic mod per year.

ie saving on $6.00 per tank @ 1 tank a week for a year = $312 in a year, and that is worst case senario. I would rather go without a burger a week, use the cheaper 98RON and save enough money to buy a front mount or a quality BOV, or a new stereo head unit!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3063300
Share on other sites

actually its a fair bit more than that. As 98 octane is usually 10-13c a litre more expensive than 91 RON (that works out to 40-50c more per gallon to you Grant) and then you calculate how much extra you are spending over a 12 month period it adds up to a basic mod per year.

ie saving on $6.00 per tank @ 1 tank a week for a year = $312 in a year, and that is worst case senario. I would rather go without a burger a week, use the cheaper 98RON and save enough money to buy a front mount or a quality BOV, or a new stereo head unit!

:P:(:rofl:

on the spot. Other issue is also it uses ehtanol. So less impat to the environment of Co2 emission. Just diong my part to save nature. At least thats what i claim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3063742
Share on other sites

I use Shell V Power Racing 100 ron in all 3 turbo cars, have been for over 2 years. I use my 4 cents + 2 cents Shell dockets, plus the 20 cents ones when they are around. When the 20 cents is on, I buy the max 150 litres and drum it. That satisfies my thrifty urges.

:( cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3065669
Share on other sites

I use Shell V Power Racing 100 ron in all 3 turbo cars, have been for over 2 years. I use my 4 cents + 2 cents Shell dockets, plus the 20 cents ones when they are around. When the 20 cents is on, I buy the max 150 litres and drum it. That satisfies my thrifty urges.

;) cheers :D

wow SK your ass is even tighter than mine :cheers: Kidding man. well thats smart move. How did you get the 20cent focket?

I used United 5% for a while. It was OK, then one day I filledup with Shell V Power and really felt the difference. Now I use it when I can.

Hugh try using the boosy 98 and see what you think? Its alot cheaper than the 100Ron. Not much difference in performance compared to the price

No shell V Power in WA :(

check on the united website on ealier pages on this thread to see wheter United is avail in you area for the boost 98.

Well this is not being a tight ass or wat for buying this fuel. Its just being smart and being so called " more evironment friendly" fuel. So at least we not not polutin as much. dont you guys think? If really you guys want 1-- ron add an equilcalent of a coke ca of ethanol into each think b4 u feel up!! LOLOLO!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3066145
Share on other sites

I tried Shell V power and wasn't that happy with it. Maybe I needed to retune the car for it? dunno...

Seemed to run richer, fuel economy was no different, couldn't tell if power was any better/worse, and it seemed to run a bit louder/not as smooth.

Switched back to bp ultimate 98 and car seemed to run a bit smoother/nicer.

I have been wondering if every car is different, or if it depends on what fuel was in the car when it was tuned? or something like that.

In any case, there wasn't a lot of difference, I just find I'm more comfortable with bp - plus even with the 4c/L discount I often wasn't paying any less than with bp (noticed in my area shell was often at least 2-4c/L more expensive than bp on average anyway - incidently I HATE the fuel discount systems for this reason).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3066367
Share on other sites

i've been using vpower for a few of months and have been getting better fuel economy(550 plus) over bp(not much stop/start driving in nth n.s.w), performance also seems to be on par if not better than bp.

ps regulary get over 450+ with a heavy shoe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3066401
Share on other sites

I tried Shell V power and wasn't that happy with it. Maybe I needed to retune the car for it? dunno...

Seemed to run richer, fuel economy was no different, couldn't tell if power was any better/worse, and it seemed to run a bit louder/not as smooth.

Switched back to bp ultimate 98 and car seemed to run a bit smoother/nicer.

I have been wondering if every car is different, or if it depends on what fuel was in the car when it was tuned? or something like that.

In any case, there wasn't a lot of difference, I just find I'm more comfortable with bp - plus even with the 4c/L discount I often wasn't paying any less than with bp (noticed in my area shell was often at least 2-4c/L more expensive than bp on average anyway - incidently I HATE the fuel discount systems for this reason).

you need to be tuned for it for the V power to be really effective. My car was tuned using Mobil 98. My tuner recommends during tune to fill up with either Bp ultimate or Mobil. After the tune use boost 98 is fine which i did.

From memory boost 98 is about 15cents cheaper than 100ron after discount.So its quite alot /year.

i've been using vpower for a few of months and have been getting better fuel economy(550 plus) over bp(not much stop/start driving in nth n.s.w), performance also seems to be on par if not better than bp.

ps regulary get over 450+ with a heavy shoe

try boost 98 for a few tanks you wont feel much difference apart from the pirce!! LOL :sorcerer:

My whole family uses Boost 98 except for my younger bros 350Z he says nissan dont recomend it. So i said if you git the $$ why not. And my other younger bros swift gt also uses boost 98 as well and its good cant complain. My dad's ther 2 cars

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/page/4/#findComment-3066993
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...