Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have an r33 gts-t with a hks gt2835 pro s and all supporting hardward, run by an apexi power fc

at the moment im making

320rwhp @ 12psi

and

337.7rwhp @ 16psi

now i am happy with my tune but not happy with the overall hp figure, ive done a search and found other people are making much more power with the same power and same mods.

my question will be is, im running a custom fmic and piping

now i know for a fact my piping has been cut and rewelded to fix my car, and the overall design of the piping looks average, also im using a china cooler. could this be casuing a flow issue and therefore giving me a lower power?

also i have a feeling that one section of the piping, may not be complete smooth on the inside possible causing turbulent flow

-michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/
Share on other sites

To see if the cooler is the problem.

Just measure the pressure before the I/C and then after it.

If there is a drop, then you have a problem :P

Would this have to be done on the dyno? and im guessing my tuner should have the tools to measure this?

thanks for the reply

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2459745
Share on other sites

id be interested to see the IGN and INJ maps

also afr on the dyno plot would have been helpful

is it possible to get a print out from my tuner of the IGN and INJ maps ? i have been meaning to get a printout with the afr, i may do that this week if it will help find out wat the possible problem could be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2459780
Share on other sites

' date='3 Sep 2006, 11:29 PM' post='2459745']

Would this have to be done on the dyno? and im guessing my tuner should have the tools to measure this?

thanks for the reply

Yep, they should be able to do it without to much of a drama

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2459795
Share on other sites

hmm,

im getting abit worried about my result

the other day my mate how has a s2 r33 with a highflow turbo got 240kw @ 16/17psi and he had issues with the turbo itself (needs to be reported or something)

this is something like 10hp less than me :S and im pretty sure the 2835 is bigger than a highflow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2469438
Share on other sites

Also,

i've been thinking about the issue with my I/C piping and Cheap Cooler.

the friction lose in the pipe itself could be causing an increase in the TOTAL HEAD, resulting in a drop in overall pressure. How great would the pressure drop need to be to affect power?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2469441
Share on other sites

well i think it goes that if you are running 10psi and the guage and actuator read from the compressor outlet or before the intercooler and intercooler core causes a 3psi pressure drop then there will be 7psi pressure in the manifold past the intercooler, which means less "boost".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2469447
Share on other sites

well i think it goes that if you are running 10psi and the guage and actuator read from the compressor outlet or before the intercooler and intercooler core causes a 3psi pressure drop then there will be 7psi pressure in the manifold past the intercooler, which means less "boost".

thanks for that info paul,

i think im going to have to look into this issue more, as i can see its the only issue why my power figure is lower

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2469459
Share on other sites

Was it the same mixturs at both boost levels?, I doubt it is the intercooler and piping, it would have to be pretty bad to lose that sort of power, i would be looking at the ign table, you could do a run on 12psi on the street, datalog the load cells, then do one at 16psi,look at how much timing has been removed to allow for the extra boost, should only be about 4deg, you can measure pressure drop in the intercooler system with a boost gauge, hook it up to the manifold and see how high it goes, then connect it to the compressor housing, should only see 1 psi difference. oh and its a bit rich, 12.2 should be fine for that power level.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2475555
Share on other sites

There's nothing too wrong with the power you are making considering the boost run and the a/f ratio. I'm assuming stock cams?

Get cams, watch as the car spits out another 25-30rwkw at the same boost and should just scrape 300rwkw with a bit more boost.

Ive seen a stock cammed rb25 with 2835proS make 269rwkw with more boost and a bottle of octane booster, but the same car is only making 256 on 16psi and pump fuel. It also uses a china intercooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132787-weakest-link/#findComment-2475622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...