Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

GTS4 is AWD, so I dunno how you'd work that in. GTS has been done already in perth, so yeah, that's definitely doable.

hsv coupe 4 is an awd ls1...

why the hell would u want to do that. Put a good JAP engine in it. and it will bolt staight in, dont put some aussie heap of shit in a good car!!!

since when is an LS1 aussie?

NA_R33 has done a nissan v8 --> R33 (in the NA performance thread - even though its now supercharged).

I'd love too as well, one day (ha ha ha). But I wouldn't bother unless it was alloy (4wd already is too front heavy)

LS1 or vh41 (or whatever) - I seem to recall that sump adapters can be troublesome...

EDIT (for post below) - I'd like to stay 'nissan' in the 'line - and the nissan v8 isn't alloy (that I know of).

EDIT2: both the LS1 and VH41 are alloy block & alloy head... as 10 minutes of google time will tell you.

Edited by ebola
NA_R33 has done a nissan v8 --> R33 (in the NA performance thread - even though its now supercharged).

I'd love too as well, one day (ha ha ha). But I wouldn't bother unless it was alloy (4wd already is too front heavy)

LS1 or vh41 (or whatever) - I seem to recall that sump adapters can be troublesome...

iirc

the ls1 is alloy

^^^^^^cause its different^^^^^

well not anymore considering that it has already been done 2-3 times here in oz

why not put something like a 1UF-ZE in it (toyota v8 - if thats the right engine code) - if it fits

apparantly they are one of the best v8's in the world so.....

the LS1 engines a shade lighter than the RB25DET, so its not like you're putting in a big heavy donk.

I wouldnt have thought that ? Interesting.

There is a guy around Brisbane with a 350 in it but not sure if it is LS1. Id have to guess so cuz you wouldnt go back to a bloody carby in a skyline.

I remember taking my RB30 to the engine shop and we were pulling it off the back of the ute and the guy didnt know till he was lifting it and said in amoungst groans "What is it ? an Rb 30" and I just laughed and went yep.

Well, how about a weight comparison then?

RB20 RB25 RB26 RB30 (all cast iron sixes)

VH41 LS1 (both alloy)

also, wouldn't a V8 be better for weight distribution (shorter motor)... with more cubes...

I still think the hardest thing would be bolting the engine to the gearbox... any thoughts on that?

ok then Why would you want to put a crap engine that the states made for australian shitty cars have to run because holden cant make there own engines, just like the VL!

LOL

because an LS1 is better than an rb25de

The guys in brissy with the 350 has been building that car since i was 14, last i heard he gave up.

My engine, VH45 is all alloy and lighter than the RB and LS1, and makes 500+RWHP on only 11psi... these engines love boost, Currently organising another engine to build properly and stick more into it.

The only reasons there is such stigma about ls1's in this country is because holden only put cheap parts in them. In the states theses engines are awesome, with the right gear they make huge power and quite simply no matter how u look at it, the bigger the engine is the more potential for power its as simple as that, so how can a 5.7ltr engine be worse then a 2.5ltr with the same accessories...

Dont get me wrong i would never put one in a skyline... i too have a thing with keeping to brands... but still, To stand out nowdays you have to think out of the box...

At Gold Coast AutoSalon the car that took out best nissan had a a farken 2J in it... now yes its cool and yes its different but how could it possibly take out that trophy....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...