Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudes.

im stuck with what turbo to chose on my car.

its an r32 gtst with the following mods:

FMIC

turbotech boost controller

bosch 040 fuel pump

K & N pod

Dr.Drift Remap running 14psi.

my aim is around the 190-200rwkw mark. i currently have 169rwkw with the above-mentioned mods.

im stuck in chosing these turbos:

Straight RB20 Turbo Highflow

Highflowed/Bored Turbine housing to fit larger steel/inconel Turbine wheel and shaft.

Highflowed/Bored Compressor Cover to fit larger alloy Compressor wheel.

This makes the Turbo Hi-Flowed both Compressor side and Turbine side.

The upgrade bolts directly back on the manifold and existing exhaust.

The housings are acid dipped and sandblasted back to new quality.

This is a journal bearing highflow and is capable of making 210-220rwkw and is rated to 18 psi max boost.

1 bar of boost is available from as little as 3000rpm.

Straight RB25 Turbo Highflow

Highflowed/Bored Turbine housing to fit larger steel/inconel Turbine wheel and shaft.

Highflowed/Bored Compressor Cover to fit larger alloy Compressor wheel.

This makes the Turbo Hi-Flowed both Compressor side and Turbine side.

The upgrade bolts directly back on the manifold and existing exhaust.

The housings are acid dipped and sandblasted back to new quality.

This is a journal bearing highflow and is capable of making 220-230rwkw and is rated to 19 psi max boost.

1 bar of boost is available from as little as 3400rpm

i wouldnt mind boost hitting me at 3000rpm, but then again, the rb25 unit would have more mid-range and top end, correct? for driveabilty and whatnot, what would be better suiterd to my needs, and mods?

any comments (good or bad) are welcomed.

thanks guys

jabba

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/
Share on other sites

There is no difference between rb20 and rb25 hiflow. They get hiflowed to the same specifications. You can make boost come on earier, it all depends on intake setup, exhaust setup and state of the tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2471512
Share on other sites

There is no difference between rb20 and rb25 hiflow. They get hiflowed to the same specifications. You can make boost come on earier, it all depends on intake setup, exhaust setup and state of the tune.

There is actually a difference.

The compressor cover limits the size of the wheel that can be used in the R32 turbo.

The RB25 turbo and VG30 turbo have larger compressor covers thus larger wheels can be used that flow more air creating more power.

The R32 and R33 turbine housings are also different in size but do not affect power as much as the compressor cover size difference does as for an example a stage 1 and 2 wheel can be used in all 3 turbine housings- R32, R33, VG30 :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2471893
Share on other sites

Paul is talking about the GCG highflow and is correct the internals are bored out to roughly the same size and rated at the same HP.

But everyone does there highflows different hence slides answer

where are you getting the highflow done?

cheers

Edited by Munna1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2472831
Share on other sites

you want to hit boost at 3 grand but are fitting a larger turbo?

those two don't match up and you'll likely add more lag.

specially choosing a gt3040r, don't expect much before 4500 ish

I had one on my r33 with the smaller exhaust housing to bolt on to standard manifold making full boost by 4000 to 4500 on 18 psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2472889
Share on other sites

im leaning towards the rb20 hi-flow unit.

but will it run out of puff? spose it doesnt matter, coz im not gonna drag it in the near future.

sure the rb25 unit is more laggier, but it will obviously last longer.

i just want something with some get up and go,

i dont really want more than 200rwkw atm either.

so probably the rb20 unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2472906
Share on other sites

Yes I agree with Slide . I think he is telling you that the RB25 and VG30 versions use a larger diameter compressor wheel with a matching larger compressor cover . These would accept 70-71mm compressor wheels more easily than the covers on the smaller RB20 type compressors . This makes the RB25's turbo (housings really) a bit more flexible with compressor options . So in other words unless you want to stick with 60mm diametre compressor wheels ie dinosaur T3 wheels or a GT28BB cartridge the RB25 is the go .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2473552
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...