Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Type M. Pretty sure all Turbo R33s are.

KN6 (Dark Grey Pearl) is my paint code too! Tasty as...

hmm thought type m's where special....are all turbo r33's really type m?

i know , its a beautiful colour , main reason I bought the car. Just coilovers wheels and exhaust and I love how mean they look

Edited by tripsteady
  • 1 month later...

Could someone please use fast to tell me the diff ratio of my 260rs stagea?

Vin wgnc34-106697

Can't use the build plate code as all 260rs start life as a rb25 with a auto and the don't change the plate

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

I am currently looking at buying a 1993 r32 gtr vspec. i just want to know if and how to make sure its a legit vspec?! Has brembo brakes yes, its navy blue in colour; is that a factory colour? Is there a way to tell using the vin or model numbers?

if someone could help would be much appreciated!

Vin: 6U9000BNR32301976

Model: KBNR32RBFS NA

Need to know asap if it actually is a Vspec!!

Hey guys,

I am currently looking at buying a 1993 r32 gtr vspec. i just want to know if and how to make sure its a legit vspec?! Has brembo brakes yes, its navy blue in colour; is that a factory colour? Is there a way to tell using the vin or model numbers?

if someone could help would be much appreciated!

Vin: 6U9000BNR32301976

Model: KBNR32RBFS NA

Need to know asap if it actually is a Vspec!!

Hi I'm learning with this program but happy to try to help. Here is your fast info.

post-58831-0-17202100-1358494334_thumb.jpg

TH1 means Dark Blue Pearl Paint

GTR.17 means v-spec from what i've gathered in previous posts.

Hi I'm learning with this program but happy to try to help. Here is your fast info.

post-58831-0-17202100-1358494334_thumb.jpg

TH1 means Dark Blue Pearl Paint

GTR.17 means v-spec from what i've gathered in previous posts.

Much appreciated! Can you please do this one aswell?

1996 R33 GTR (Vspec?)

Vin: 6U900BCNR33022988

Model : GGJPRQFR33ZDA-A-AA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...