Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

supra ,

sure yhe book might tell you to put your stands on the sill but if you look closer it tells you to use a special tool ( lm4519-0000) i think you'll find thats some rubber block that fits on the sill so you dont bend it . if its not a rubber block you'll find its a special stand like the jack that comes with the car that fits inside the sill , if you got that thats cool but with normal stands i put them uder the rail or near where the suspension mount is at the rear , i never put a stand on the sill , my sills are still straight .

ok, i've got advice for all of you. I work in a workshop, and this is the one post to answer them all. As i have been through a lot of this before, i can tell you the dos and don'ts.

Do not get cheap jacks. I started off with a jack from supercheap rated at 1850 kg. That was the 3rd smallest one (smallest was 1400kg). Everyone would think to themselves, oh yeah, i'm only lifting up half the car, the whole car only weighs 1400 kg. Wrong, those jacks are very flimsy and don't lift the car very high. When using it, i had a very bad feeling, as if the jack was going to break any moment. I continued, and when i reached the max height, it was not even high enough to put stands under. That jack was $85

Bargain buy. At supercheap atm, you can get a 2500kg jack for $150, absolute bargain. I work in a workshop and use so called high quality jacks, and i trust the one from supercheap. I have had many scraping problems with the front bar, so i've put my coilovers to stock height, and i find that i still cannot get any trolley jack under to the crossmember, even a slim one from work. Even when lowered, I was able to get the jack under the car by driving onto one 2x4. EASY. This jack is the same size and high quality build as those monster jacks.

JACKING

I've been reading the posts by you guys, and i've noticed that a lot of you seem to have confused the chassis rails with the sills. All this talk about ruining the structural integrity of your car. Sorry, but wrong. The sills, are the desinated jacking spot. That little metal flap on the sill that gets bent does not help structural integrity. Feel it, it's so flimsy. That gets bent, but the sill does not. The chassis rail is further in, and it does get bent, and i would not advice you to jack from there.

The sills are the designated jacking position for the car, and can easily handle being jacked, as they do not get bent by a standard jack. It's just that little metal flap, which does nothing anyways. The recommended jacking position for a trolley jack is the rear diff, and the front cross member. However, as the sills can handle it, and are easier to reach, i find them quite fine. I've probably jacked it 100 times, and it has not bent, just that little flap.

Hope this has helped you guys to close this thread for good.

yeah no brand on this jack, it is alloy.

Low height is 90mm, raised is 395mm, handle 1000mm, length is 550mm (important since not just the saddle but a lot of the jack has to get under the car too....

Was advertised in Auto Action last week, email of seller is [email protected]

I haven't seen one in the flesh yet but I've been looking for a decent race style jack at a good price for ages.

yae it looked like it was an alloy jack , its very good because its so light ( i used them before ) 90 mm low height is normal .

i saw an ad for an alloy jack at the penrith toolbox , i cant remember the price though .

i thought they were rated 1500 kg , how heavy is it , does it look strong ?

anyway the lift rating is only for the pump not the jack itself . you can get $30 jacks that are rated 1500 kg but they are very flimsey .

  • 2 years later...

I just jacked up the front of the car using the suspension cross member and I placed the stands on the inner chassis rail. I just read this post and it says to place the stands on the outer sill. It didn't seem to bend the chassis rail or anything, can I continue using this as the stand points because to me it looked fine?

But now I have to jack up the rear and the chassis rail seems very thin at the back. Other than the sill can someone draw on the picture where I can place the stands on the rear suspension component? Otherwise I will try to cut out a piece of wood with a slot to place on the factory jacking points.

Thankyou

post-3291-1161862817.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...