Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

woah danger! thats an awesome figure!! and coming from an auto as well!!! good work!!1

did you think the q45 was necessary?

we had to tweak the Q45 as it kept maxing out.

So yes i would say it was money well spent.

there around the same price as a Z32 anyway.

nice,

anyone have any idea how this turbo would do on a RB30 with mild Cams and a 7k Redline?

How would it do with the different AR sizes .63 .82 1.06?

responsive? laggy?

rb25 standard cams

.82 AR

26psi by 4200rpm

would be about 3500 on a rb30 and may be better with cams.

Hi fellas,

Grepin actually had the .68 housing originally and made over 300@the tyres, then just recently he changed to the larger housing - not much difference in the power output just moved it higher in the rev range. I think he said he's seen 320kw@ the tyres at one stage (maybe he had the wastegate wired shut!!!?)

I'm going to stay with my .68 housing - I've just purchased 256 tomei pon cams and fitted water meth so am looking foreward to a new tune.

Cheers

Grepin went to fairly extreme measures to get that 300rwkw, like practically having to jam closed the wastegate from what i remember!

my 280rwkw was made with a small front mount and 3inch exhaust, i have just fitted a HKS type-R FMIC off of my GTR to replace the little hybrid, plus a 3 1/2 inch exhaust. Once its off defect (very soon!) i will put the good bits back on and re-tune and see what happens.

if grepin has the 0.87 and totally maxed it at 300rwkw, then isnt it likely that mine is the same housing, seeing as i got close to 300 without really screwing it for max power?

How much difference in peak power is the housing gonna make? Mine also doesnt hit hard till 4000rpm, which housing would that fact indicate?? im thinking if i do have the 0.68 and it doesnt hit hard till 4grand, then on an RB20 it would be laggy as hell! Seeing how you guys are saying the .68 is good on an rb20, it would lead me to think its a 0.87... yet something in my mind remembers 0.68 fron when i ordered it... why cant it just have the damn number on the housing!!

First of all, nice numbers!

Few questions though:

1. How does it spool so quickly? I thought it was commonly accepted that you wouldn't have 20+ psi until 4700ish on a RB25 w/ stock head. Is it all because of the manifold? Or the tune?

2. Shouldn't the .82 AR GT3540 make around 500whp at 26 psi? Not saying that 425 is low by any means but still.

3. At what rpm does boost really start building?

Not calling BS or anything, just tryin to figure things out for my turbo setup. Thanks!

Awesome results Darren, as you said stock head, plenum, cams and an auto. :D

Definitely an excellent power figure for the boost run not to forget its an auto that are well known for sucking out a bit of power. No doubt if it was behind a manual you could throw another 30rwkw on to the figure.

Also looks like that stock wastegate size is working well, its definitely able to pass the air required as it is dropping boost at the top end. Great to see you've made use of those internals with a peak of 26-27psi.

Still dumb founded.. 317rwkw on the stock auto, tough little auto box's those.

So... Is it scary.. :(

1. How does it spool so quickly? I thought it was commonly accepted that you wouldn't have 20+ psi until 4700ish on a RB25 w/ stock head. Is it all because of the manifold? Or the tune?

Auto's have a considerable influence on spool

Go the Auto!!!!!!

its very predictable.. you can cruise around off boost and its so nice to drive, yet point it in a straight line and boot it and it changes up into top gear rather quickly.

All good..

big smile..

i have dropped it back to 20psi as i said i would, but its nice to know that its there if i need it.

:laugh:

Hi fellas,

Grepin actually had the .68 housing originally and made over 300@the tyres, then just recently he changed to the larger housing - not much difference in the power output just moved it higher in the rev range. I think he said he's seen 320kw@ the tyres at one stage (maybe he had the wastegate wired shut!!!?)

I'm going to stay with my .68 housing - I've just purchased 256 tomei pon cams and fitted water meth so am looking foreward to a new tune.

Cheers

I must have the 0.68 housing then. that sounds about right now... I too will stick with it as its just right for the street and should cut some nice 11's with the right traction!

Dangerman thats a great result! so how much bigger is this turbo than a HKS 3037proS? given the fact that on a manual car the HKS will see 320+rwkw, and yours if it was manual a touch more?!

It would be nice to see it on the rollers but personally I probably wouldn't juuuuuuust incase it made less power. lol

That would eat at me.

Either way buddy.. Just asking if you had plans to or not. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...