Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i tried doing this with mine and it didnt work :rofl: so i sold the rsm and got a navara drive

Damn, that sucks. So I hafta get a new speedo cable with the plastic bit in one piece aswell. I've already ordered a AVC-R, haha, at least its a good boost controller, not just a speedo.

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dunno bout that, i sold my AVCR also cause it didnt control boost for shit....

but yeah, i need a new plastic thingy for the cable also as mine has now broken... and you cant buy themk seperate from nissan, need the whole cable

Serious, I always thought AVCR was up there with eboost.

I've heard of people getting the plastic bit replaced with something stronger, was thinking of ways to make it myself but the hard part is getting it to fit back on the shaft (cable) because its got that bell shape around it so you cant get to it to make a slot or anything.

Simply have the yokes swapped and tail shaft balanced.

Take as little off it as possible. Remove ~12-15mm removing the old yoke and weld.

Mine and Salads was done this way fits fine. :nyaanyaa:

Balance and yoke swap is around $160. Get a couple done at the same time and its cheaper. :w00t:

hey everyone just a bit back to the origin of the post, i have got the navara sender and r33 cog, put them in the gearbox but it was a tight fit, didnt realise that the sender had to be rotated 180 degrees with a slit in the side and now its stuck in there real good, snapped off some of the thread trying to get it out. any ideas on how to remove it?

Spray WD in there and hope it helps the rubber seal to slide a little, then lever it out via the existing slot.

When its in correctly (180) its a fairly tight fit as the seal grabs if you don't use vaso or gearbox oil on it.

Simply have the yokes swapped and tail shaft balanced.

Take as little off it as possible. Remove ~12-15mm removing the old yoke and weld.

Mine and Salads was done this way fits fine. :)

Balance and yoke swap is around $160. Get a couple done at the same time and its cheaper. :D

Nah, I'm getting a one piece made up with bigger replaceable uni's. Don't wanna risk using the stock tail shaft with 350rwkw's. Did anyone measure the distance or did everyone just cut, weld and fit?

Cheers

I've attached a pic of the rb25det gearbox sitting in the car and the rb20 tailshaft up against the dust shield.

As you can see the 20t tailshaft sits slightly inside the box; by the time you remove/cleanup/chop off the old weld and reweld the new yoke on the dust shield lines up perfectly with the rb25 yoke.

Don't take off any more than you have to otherwise the yokes dust shield section will hang outside of the gearbox dust shield.

post-382-1196763571_thumb.jpg

Premo, i get my rb25 yoke on Thursday so i'll be getting my tailshaft mod done soon at the same place as joel and showza (adelaide tailshaft services) might be able to get them done at the same time, even if your doing yours a little different to mine.

Premo, i get my rb25 yoke on Thursday so i'll be getting my tailshaft mod done soon at the same place as joel and showza (adelaide tailshaft services) might be able to get them done at the same time, even if your doing yours a little different to mine.

Thanks for the offer but I'm getting a one piece made up, a bit bigger and stronger. While your getting the tail shaft made up could you measure the distance between the diff flange and the furthest point of the gearbox just so I can make sure the tail shaft I'm getting copied is the right length??

The one I'm getting copied is from an R32 with SR20 and Z32 gearbox so it should be the right length but I wanna double check before I go get it made up, my gearbox hasn't been delivered yet so I cant get the measurement myself. Or If anyone knows the difference in length of an RB20 box and R33 box I could work it out.

Thanks

Edited by =premo=

Pretty sure I mentioned this in another thread.. when we had my engine out to put the new crank/bearings in, I put my stock tailfshaft up next to that out of a 32gtst with an rb26 and 25 gearbox, they were practically the same length minus the saw cut (~1.5-2mm).

Pretty sure I mentioned this in another thread.. when we had my engine out to put the new crank/bearings in, I put my stock tailfshaft up next to that out of a 32gtst with an rb26 and 25 gearbox, they were practically the same length minus the saw cut (~1.5-2mm).

Nice one, thank you.

Thanks Cube's for the pic, makes sense now.

Simon, check your PM's

Edited by =premo=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...