Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HONDA announced the 'Civic type R' production version of the hatchback performance car on the 14th. Sales are scheduled for international markets to be announced at the Paris Motor Show at the end of September, and to start in 2007.

The engine is 2.0-liter DOHC 'i-VTEC' engine as used in the previous model. Max power is 201PS@8000rpm. The previous engine made 200PS@7400rpm. According to Honda each part has been refined for the 2007 version, and the response has improved markedly thanks to the newly developed balancer shaft and drive by wire throttle, though it's not clear as to why a higher output wasn't acheived.

0-100 km/h acceleration time of 6.6 seconds is the same as the outgoing model and the maximum speed of 235 km/h is also unchanged. Word going round at the moment seems to focus on the weight of the new model, which seems to have increased somewhat, despite Honda claiming identical performance figures to the previous model.

gallery_4816_41_10738.jpg

gallery_4816_41_6825.jpg

gallery_4816_41_26801.jpg

gallery_4816_41_41985.jpg

gallery_4816_41_8689.jpg

I hear that dashboard is pretty much production ready, heck the whole interior looks like a high tech junior S2000... which can only be a good thing. It does look pudgy overall though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134508-new-civic-type-r/
Share on other sites

is it just the european model thats porked up? i remember reading ages ago that the new type R was supposed to be significantly lighter than the old one

Actually the model there is the one to be shown at the Paris Motor Show so you might be right about the Euro version being heavier, not quite sure as to 'why' though... the old model (JDM) was listed as 1190kg so the Euro version will break the 1200kg barrier for sure. That sounds pretty weird for a 3-door hatch, but I guess thats the way things are going. I'm not sure if the JDM version will be that much lighter though... if they can trim 80 - 90kg then it'd be more like the old EK version (which is what people buy this type of car for I suppose?)

From the shape of it, it looks like Honda may be gearing up for a go at the WRC. Suzuki are doing it. But, I'm not sure they'd operate an F1 team and WRC team at the same time. Has anyone heard anything?

Having said that, I cant see Honda finishing their F1 program, but then, no-one expected Toyota to quit the WRC and go to F1...........

From the shape of it, it looks like Honda may be gearing up for a go at the WRC. Suzuki are doing it. But, I'm not sure they'd operate an F1 team and WRC team at the same time. Has anyone heard anything?

Having said that, I cant see Honda finishing their F1 program, but then, no-one expected Toyota to quit the WRC and go to F1...........

I'd have to agree in fact that if Honda does do WRC, it'd be because they've dropped their F1 program (which I highly doubt considering they only recently took ownership of BAR's F1 stock).

For many reasons, I think that WRC isn't quite as glamorous a choice as it once was back in the 80's. One of these is the lack of involvement by major constructors. As of now, I think there are only two companies with factory based teams this year: Ford and Subaru. While that number will grow next year, there's still the problem with TV exposure. Rallies run over three days, involves tons of cameras, and the owner of WRC (David Richards) charges a ton for the TV rights. Infact, although it had a strong cult following in the US, the motorsport channel we have decided not to renew for this season!

Compared all of this to F1 where there's more competition, better brand exposure, more prestige, more revenue, etc, and I think it's really a no-brainer that a lot of companies decide to pack up shop with their WRC program and move over to F1 (a la Toyota 5 years ago).

BTW- The Toyota F1 and WRC teams were/are both run by a group called TTE (Team Toyota Europe). I believe they also brought over a lot of staff from the WRC team during the early stages of the F1 team, most notably former rally driver Ove Anderssen (sic) as their first F1 team boss.

Edited by shiro240

Looks uber cool esp the interior but no thanks with that engine, I'd much rather a hot hatch with beef such as a Mazda 3 MPS or Ford Focus XR5 for the same money, rather than an admittedly sexy looking but torqueless, peaky 4 cylinder NA engined buzzbox.

If Honda wanted to keep their perfomance hatch NA they should go the 6 cylinder muscle route like the new Golf R32 or BMW 130i, a 2.0 4 cylinder VTEC means no fun unless you keep it planted in first and 2nd gear at all speeds under 160km/hr lest you fall off the 'VTEC cam boost'!

Edited by R34 Rampage

Engine looks like it will be a pain in the arse too do anything on, aside from that its a nice looking car but like most of those bloody front wheel drives throwing too much power through the front pegs you end up wrestling with them more than driving.

I'd agree with what Shan said about it looking like a shrunk Odyssey. Even the tailgate comes right down into the rear bumper like the Odyssey, almost giving it a 'minivan but not' look from the rear. If the rear glass was anymore upright I guess you could call it a minivan.

Far nbe it from me to comment on a cars styling (lol) I think it's proportions and 'cab forward' design are all wrong and it's 3/4 rear view looks hideous.

Even if you hate it, I still think you have to give Honda a lot of credit for coming out with such a different design. They seem to be real good at producing edgy, yet refined, designs and I think in about 10 years time, this car may be looked at as one of the better car designs of the "nouveau-box" trend we're in right now.

Going by the absolutely awesome looking honda oddesey bodykits in japan, i reckon this design will yeild itself to some wicked junior pimp styling.

Still. at the end of the day its a civic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...