Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apart from the intitial purchase price difference in the RB20 to RB25, all other modification prices should be the same.

RB20's are a strong engine, no doubt. Anyone who drifts a stock engine is always pushing the engine design to its limits :-) and will come unstuck at some point in time.

" Will the RB25 make more grunt everywhere, yes. " is basically what I was saying from the start.

mind you it comes down to the history of the motor, my 2nd 20 was revving to 8000 rpm which is massive for a nissan motor.

my RB25 will probably fall over at 6000 with the tiny RB20 turbo on it!

Far out.. my 20 is running 20pound and is a daily... in 4th and 5th it runs some pretty stupid boost too... it runs rich as tho, 10.1 ratios throughout the range..... got me thinkin how long till she blows..

Edited by Josh
i think old matey who started this thread was actually going to be doing internals? unless i read wrong...

I understand your point of view, but i have killed 2 RB20s with only a little drifting and i consider them weak.

lets agree to disagree

May I ask what it was that killed the motors in the end? (IE what did they die from?)

im sorry but in my experience, the RB20 is a complete waste of time.

Short Stroke, no torque, small exhaust pulses...

its just not on... plus they are the weakest of all the RB engines.

If your going to look for a reliable 240 RWKW then go and get yourself a $900 RB25DE and start adding your fancy name brand parts...

an RB25 making 240 rwkw is a hell of a lot less scared and stressed than the equivilent RB20...

and if your on the coast, i know of a RB25DE (catch is its the 4wd model) for $750.

Heres a picture to prove my point...

holed.jpg

doesnt take me long to kill 20's

thats because u starved the bottom end of oil constant hi rpm keeps the oil in the head causing the pic u posted

(esp as u are drifting)

ive made 280rwkw on my old rb20det it did it for over 3yrs and i abused the engine somthing shocking not just reving the ring out of her but only changin the oil every 20-30,000km running no coolant just water

ive rebuilt a fair few rb20 and 25 and im sorry to say it the 25 doesnt quite stack up to a rb20 (but im just another roy :) i love my rb20det over rb25s )

because the rb20 has the weakest rods of the RB generation..

and the RB25DE is internally the same as the 25DET (save for the high comp pistons and oil squirters)

Do you understand that a turbocharger is just an artificial way of raising the compression of an engine? 10:1 compression on an RB25DE needs less boost to make the same power.

eg 1 bar boost on a factory turbo engine with 8:1 compression is effectively a 16:1 CR engine

whereas 0.6 bar boost on a 10:1 CR engine is effectively also 16:1 CR

another reason for choosing the RB25 is purely for displacement, as a 2.5 litre needs less boost and revs to make the same power as a 2.0 litre

what the u are jokin right

how can a shorter stroke rb20 corod (which is 3x thicker than a rb25 rod be weaker ) as they have the same grade metal in them

Sure its valves are smaller, they have to be the bore is a sh1t load smaller. Does the head flow as much, no way.

But compare it to say an SR20DET, sure the valves are smaller again, a function of the smaller bore, but based on the cc of each cylinder im betting the valve area is actually superior (Is it, i have never been bothered to work it out)

The RB20 bottom end is a good thing. And whilst its small bore and short stroke hurt it in the torque stakes. the small bore means a small, light pistons so its kind to its bottom end. It has bloody strong rods for a std car. Its bearings are basically the same size as its bigger RB brothers, and has lower piston speeds. So on paper the bottom end is damn strong.

So moving to the head and flow. They do not flow as well as an RB25. But put the same turbo on both engines and tell me that for the power figures that most of us chase there is a tangible difference over and above the fact that the RB25 enjoys a 500cc advantage and 0.5:1 in compression. If the head flowed that much worse an RB20 would not get near the figures the RB25 gets with the same turbo.

RB20 isnt as good, but it has advantages, and its disadvantages are as bad as ppl make out. The mods you do just have to play to its advantages.

Or you can go out and spend 10k on an engine that will smack everything....but it costs 10k :ermm: Id rather spend 10k chasing se4xy back packers accross Europe :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 馃ぃ馃憤   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
  • Create New...