Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've seen a couple of sets of the noltec ones (non-adjustable) and was also wondering about whether the extra collar helps with the durability - is anyone running them with big caster?

What we really need is upper arms designed with the extra caster in mind......*squints at gary*

A friend had the Nismo arms in the front of his R33 GTS25T. They werent adjusable but they were meant to be aligned for better traction at a lowered ride height. Having driven the car at Wakefield and EC it was a sensation compared to the handlign of my car.

So the Nismo arms for the GTR/GTST, do they solve/allow for this problem?

Otherwise, if i can get my hands on Visual Nastran then i can model it all in 3D and do the motion analysis on it to get some fixed length arms made up

The model would be great, but effectively the Whiteline kit makes the arm a fixed length - just shorter. I think what it needs it a slight twist in it so that the caster induced load in compression that occurs on the upper link bushes is reduced.

But without the model that is just supposition....

I doubt you would get a sheet load of people wanting them. They don't do anything other than repalce the standard ones & are non adjustable. The Whiteline gear is adjustable & for most uses appears to be fine.

I am looking for a set, however...

  Roy said:
A friend had the Nismo arms in the front of his R33 GTS25T. They werent adjusable but they were meant to be aligned for better traction at a lowered ride height. Having driven the car at Wakefield and EC it was a sensation compared to the handlign of my car.

So the Nismo arms for the GTR/GTST, do they solve/allow for this problem?

Otherwise, if i can get my hands on Visual Nastran then i can model it all in 3D and do the motion analysis on it to get some fixed length arms made up

The R32 Nismo arms (I actually have a set) are EXACTLY the same as the standard arms, except they had “hardness up” rubber bushes. I haven’t ever seen a set of R33/34 Nismo arms, so I can’t speak for them.

:angry: cheers :)

LOL...really? You forget they are painted silver and have Nismo stickers on them! :P

Oh well...im worried about takign the car back out with eh clunkign on the front end. horrible noise and is pretty disconcerning. Sounds like im going to damage somehting big time :)

I just hope it sounds worse then it is

  • 2 weeks later...

So that would price the silver paint at, what, about $130?

Got the Noltec bushes delivered. For once they cost less than listed price. :P $120 ish with postage. For the record they feel harder than the Whiteline bushes, despite all the palaver on the Noltec site.

Edited by djr81
  • 9 months later...

Sydneykid,

Slightly old thread but, Very interesting. How are you going with the upgraded camber kit for R32's? Any news regarding them yet?

My road going gtr needs either new upper arms or a better bush style camber kit installed compaired to the Whiteline kit currently available. All products using sealed bearings like Midori and Nolathane arms are designed for track use only and are too harsh for street driven cars and illegal.

Picture of new Nolathane arms attatched

Love to get my hands on these Gary

  Sydneykid said:
The issue with R32’s chewing out bushes in the front upper control arms is a known problem, hence why Nissan changed to the wide spaced inner pivot joints on R33’s and R34’s.

As a few of you know, I am currently testing a revised camber kit for the front of R32’s. The revision is to allow more camber adjustment by utilising an offset crush tube in both the inner and outer joints. The normal camber kit only has an offset crush tube on the outer joint.

As well as allowing more camber adjustment, less negative camber for excessively lowered road cars and more for circuit cars, it will add more compliance into the upper arm inner pivot joints. This should noticeably decrease the propensity for the (current) low compliance inner bush to be chewed out by the distortion caused by the R32 geometry. Which (as a couple of you have found out) is exacerbated by increased camber and (mostly) caster.

The off the shelf KCA336 kit contains both alloy and poly bushes for use in the inner pivot point, refer picture following;

Skyline_Front_Camber_Kit.jpg

What I am testing uses full polyurethane bushes (no alloy) in the inner pivot point,.with an offset crush tube for adjustment This will allow capacity for more of the inbuilt distortion (on suspension movement) to be absorbed by the thicker shanking on the bush. Following is a picture of a Nismo upper control arm with the adjustable bushes installed in the inner and outer joints.

Post picture here

I have only just started road testing, so it is early days yet. I will also be carrying out some circuit testing in the R32GTST. If it stands up to that punishment then I will be offering the upgrade for those that want/need it. More updates will be posted as they occur.

:thumbsup: cheers :domokun:

PS; it is worth mentioning at this time that the Group Buy price on the KCA336 (for R32’s) and KCA348 (for R33’s, R34’s and Stageas) has been reduced from $272 to $183. This maintains the 15% discount on the Whiteline retail price (20% if the order is over $1K).

post-22417-1183979964_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...