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What Do You Think Of My Drag Slip...14.78sec Et


r33madd
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this should be in the drag section

most of this has probably been covered a few times in there

Very sorry im new to the forum and i havent sussed the search out very well yet

from the look of your sig the rear of your car is too low... very hard with the IRS to get traction when it's that low, no room for squat or weight transfer

also are you running any kind of fuel controller? if you are running those mods off the stock ecu it will be way too rich, esp. with an aftermarket pump in ther

No my sig is photoshopped i have the factory suspention setup

I have a dyno tuned Apexi Safc-II as my fuel controller air fuel mix is pretty good

i ran 15psi in my tyres and launch at bout 3500rpm and i would say anything under a 2.0 60ft should get u in the high 13's

Thanks for that ill keep trying i have a new session ahead of me.

3500 is what i was launching at.

and i have 30 psi in my tyres

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This was my 2nd time at the drag strip.

i am happy to get into the 14's as my other best was 15.06

What do you think of my Drag slip

Reaction Time 0.117

60' Time 2.31

1/8 Time 9.67

1/8 kmh 124.49

1/4 mile Time 14.78

Trap Speed 156.31

any comments tips trick would be great

whats it printed on. i'd need to know before i comment

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No my sig is photoshopped i have the factory suspention setup

I have a dyno tuned Apexi Safc-II as my fuel controller air fuel mix is pretty good

Thanks for that ill keep trying i have a new session ahead of me.

3500 is what i was launching at.

and i have 30 psi in my tyres

ah okay... well its your driving then! :)

3,500 is too much in my opinion... try about 2,500 and when the light goes green dont drop the clutch, ride it out slowly as you keep your right foot pinned to the floor... if you feel too much wheelspin ease the clutch out slower, if you feel it start to bog drop it quicker etc etc... change at 6,500 - 7000 trying not to hit the limiter, changing slightly early is better than smashing the limiter... your power curve flattens out at about 6,000 anyway... make sure your changes are nice and crisp and you should see the 13's no worries

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When i was making 200rwkw i was passing at about 13.4's fairlly consistentlly.

I used to ride the clutch in 1st gear and hit 2nd gear at the 60 foot make and from there is was just "shake and bake".

Once i upped the power to 242rwkw i had a new clutch in for obvious reasons. I got it down to a 12.4 and all round that area, but could not break the 11 second pass on street tyres. I refuse to go to drag slicks or semi slicks till i hit the 11 on street tyres...

I am currentlly going through the motions and have been for the last 6 months of making a 300rwkw build. This should see my 11's and possiblly mid 11's with the right tyre choice. I dont want to break into the 10's cause i dont want to cage it.

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ah okay... well its your driving then! :)

3,500 is too much in my opinion... try about 2,500 and when the light goes green dont drop the clutch, ride it out slowly as you keep your right foot pinned to the floor... if you feel too much wheelspin ease the clutch out slower, if you feel it start to bog drop it quicker etc etc... change at 6,500 - 7000 trying not to hit the limiter, changing slightly early is better than smashing the limiter... your power curve flattens out at about 6,000 anyway... make sure your changes are nice and crisp and you should see the 13's no worries

yea totally agree that 3500rpm is too much on street tyes with std suspension setup...my best launch last week was when i held it at about 2200rpm then as yellows came on i started to let clutch out (almost a dump) as i floored it & it just axxle tramped a tiny bit then sat down & took off & i pulled a 2.0 with a dead stocker 33 sedan

tried to go 3000rpm the next time & it wheel spun & did a 2.3

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I have found that traction compound makes a huge difference also. Most test and tune nights at willowbank they use traction compound to help with spinage...

As for a 6k dump and no wheel spin that would mean that either your clutch is slipping or your engine is dumping from 6k straight to 2k when the tyres grip... Thats not a good thing...

If you launch at 3-4k you should slip your clutch a bit and by the time the drivetrain is up to speed you can completelly dump the clutch. Then go hammer and thongs...

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whats it printed on. i'd need to know before i comment

Sorry what do you mean dude

ah okay... well its your driving then! :laugh:

3,500 is too much in my opinion... try about 2,500 and when the light goes green dont drop the clutch, ride it out slowly as you keep your right foot pinned to the floor... if you feel too much wheelspin ease the clutch out slower, if you feel it start to bog drop it quicker etc etc... change at 6,500 - 7000 trying not to hit the limiter, changing slightly early is better than smashing the limiter... your power curve flattens out at about 6,000 anyway... make sure your changes are nice and crisp and you should see the 13's no worries

Haha yes it sure is my driving some more practice what a shame

Thanks for that dude some good tips to try next time.

When i was making 200rwkw i was passing at about 13.4's fairlly consistentlly.

I used to ride the clutch in 1st gear and hit 2nd gear at the 60 foot make and from there is was just "shake and bake".

Once i upped the power to 242rwkw i had a new clutch in for obvious reasons. I got it down to a 12.4 and all round that area, but could not break the 11 second pass on street tyres. I refuse to go to drag slicks or semi slicks till i hit the 11 on street tyres...

I am currentlly going through the motions and have been for the last 6 months of making a 300rwkw build. This should see my 11's and possiblly mid 11's with the right tyre choice. I dont want to break into the 10's cause i dont want to cage it.

Ya car sounds wicked dude

Thanks for the tips i hope i can make a 13.4 with some practice.

another prob was the track here in NZ is not prepped for the local tst and tune

so ill go out on the next propper night on a prepped track maybe will help wih the traction as well.

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i haven't been to the track yet, but on the road if i want to get off the line well i hold it at about 4500rpm, heel/toe the brake (too lazy to use the handbrake) and gas and ride the clutch to friction point to build boost and get the rear to squat. then jump off the brake and let the clutch up, and use throttle control and a bit of clutch slipping to keep it on the fine line between wheelspin and traction.

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When my old R31 RB30ET had 208rwKW it was running 109mph Terminals.

Personally I think your car is probably not producing 200rwKW.

Still with a terminal speed of around 100mph as you are now, you really should be just scraping into the 13's :laugh:

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mad082,

Similiar as to what the japs do... But they use the handbreak.

To the OP.

Have a good look at your tyres.. Tyres get slippery as they get low, not to mention if they are a cheapish tyre.

I recently went a toyo and the grip compared to the old set (even when the old were new) was amazing. If I remember correctly federal make a really good well priced grippy street tyre. Sky30 runs them behind his 300rwkw RB30.

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mad082,

Similiar as to what the japs do... But they use the handbreak.

yeah. i use the handbrake sometimes. i find it works really well. was tought it by my mechanic. he runs 1.6 60 foot times in his sr powered sigma on sticky street tyres.

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What does it mean when i pull the car into 4th gear and it kind of bogs down then pcks up again. i notaced that a few times.

haha i have also found out i am using the most crap drag strip in NZ.

for example a 260awkw R34 GT-R was just getting low 13's his best being 13.68

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