Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just after some advice.

Im chasing around 250rwkw in my r32 eventually, I already have gtr injectors, 500hp fuel pump and afew other supporting mod's on my rb20, altho still stock turbo.

My question is, should I ditch the rb20 and drop an rb25det in, or go for a rebuild and stroke the rb20 to the 2.4?

I figure it will be more expensive going the Rb25 route, but Id rather go that if it will handle the power better?

Im not sure how far I can push the 2.4 and also I hate the lagginess of the rb20.

I'd like abit more info on the 2.4?

Cheers.

if you want what is the cheaper of the 2 go the rb25 .Building an rb2.4 is expensive and the rb25 will get you the power you want easy with out the lag

cheers Peter

From my personal experience turning an RB20 into a Rb24 is not worth it...

Parts are expensive and you may as well just go to a Rb26 for the same money...

For a simple 250rwkw the Rb25 is the perfect selection. Most importantlly their cheap and the parts are cheap...

(When i say cheap, their cheap in comparison to other engines.)

Its easy to get an RB25det reg'd in an R32.

Here in Adelaide they need to run the stock ecu, R33 GTST front brakes and thats it.

Unsure what the price of an R33 motor and ecu is worth these days but it 'may' work out better simply grabbing yourself an R32 RB25DE and dropping a set of aftermarket cast or forged (which ever your budget permits) pistons in it to drop the compression with a cheap refresh. For near the same cost (maybe +1k :ninja:) of an R33 motor and ecu you end up with a fresh 2.5ltr. ;)

The bonus of the R32 RB25DE motor is they are identical (sensor, plugs, injectors, bolt ups etc) to that of the RB20DET, so simply rip the rb20det out, drop the rb25 in, start it on the rb20 ecu and drive it to the tuners to ensure afr's are good, which they will be but MAY hit an early fuel cut as the ecu won't expect so much airflow at a lesser rpm.

what about an rb30 btm end underneath the 20 head?

my tuner showed me one they put in a vl with a huge turbo

and ran 10z at its first meet.

not sure what needs to go inside the engine though,can anyone help on

whats needed inside the engine?

as id like to go this route to maintain the stock look.

what about an rb30 btm end underneath the 20 head?

my tuner showed me one they put in a vl with a huge turbo

and ran 10z at its first meet.

not sure what needs to go inside the engine though,can anyone help on

whats needed inside the engine?

as id like to go this route to maintain the stock look.

wow they would have some good response...prob not as good potential as a 25 head....but the idea is there.

I like the idea of a rb24 just cause it is different, i mean it is more but then you could get 250rwkw without changing the internals on the 20, just mean some lag issues....but then again do you drift on track or anything? just dump the clutch again it if is slow :) The rb20 is still one of the strongest engines, dont want lag then pump fuel and a smaller turbo and or a different cam. Also you could commit suicide and put an sr20 wth a gt28rs in if you want balls.

Haha thanks for the response's guys, still undecided, at the moment my main game is drag, but I'd like to dabble in abit of everything. The idea of the R32 RB25 sound's like a good idea, I never thought of that, tho no VVT?

I thought the 2.4 might do alright with lag compared to 2.0l, figured it wouln't be too much different from a 2.5? but judging by the responses it sounds like it would be just as bad as a 20.

Haha thanks for the response's guys, still undecided, at the moment my main game is drag, but I'd like to dabble in abit of everything. The idea of the R32 RB25 sound's like a good idea, I never thought of that, tho no VVT?

I thought the 2.4 might do alright with lag compared to 2.0l, figured it wouln't be too much different from a 2.5? but judging by the responses it sounds like it would be just as bad as a 20.

Yep no VVT. The head etc literally looks exactly the same as an RB20DET. The only difference is the side of the combustion chamber, valves and larger inlet ports.

With regards to the rb20 head on an rb30 in a VL running a 10. Thats no big deal.. An rb30et (SOHC) touch over 300rwkw, slicks, stally and an auto pulls in to the 10's with SOHC. :)

From my personal experience turning an RB20 into a Rb24 is not worth it...

Parts are expensive and you may as well just go to a Rb26 for the same money...

For a simple 250rwkw the Rb25 is the perfect selection. Most importantlly their cheap and the parts are cheap...

(When i say cheap, their cheap in comparison to other engines.)

i'm keen to hear about your RB24 too.

I think the 24 would be a good option, and certainly more torquey than the 20 possibly about the same as a 25 even. and it will look stock. still have the same engine number, still run on the same ecu etc etc. it definately has some advantages. but i have to agree that the 25 will probably be cheaper.

Can someone explain why RB20s scream and sound great, where as RB25s are a slightly flatter/deeper exhaust note? There is enough of a reason to keep the RB20 there :)

I do miss the scream and top end power feel where it doesn't simply nose over but just keep screaming. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
×
×
  • Create New...