Jump to content
SAU Community

Question For Time Attack (track Day) People

ZENNON

By ZENNON,
in Queensland

 Share

HICAS vs No HICAS (Track use)  

34 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

ZENNON Grand Master

ZENNON

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Ive just bought an 1992 R32 GTSt and am planning to take it to track for a bit of fun. It has HICAS installed at the moment which as far as I can tell works fine. (HICAS light comes on sometimes due to a bad contact somewhere - which goes away when you spray contacts with contact cleaner).

Anyways real question is what do you guys think? Would I be better off removing the HICAS? I personally think its crap but have had a few friends (who have had 4WS cars but dont know anything about skylines) tell me that maybe it just takes some getting use to....

I think its fine for the road but dont like it when turning under speed - so whats the verdict?

Comments welcome

Edit: One friend even suggested trying it with HICAS atleast once which is also an option i suppose...

Edited by ZENNON
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

You can keep it for a little while. I have been out with HICAS still on, didn't kill me..

The general consensus is remove it when you can for more predictable handling, but it's not mandatory if you are just out there to have some fun.

ZENNON Grand Master

ZENNON

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it's pretty easy. unless u did wat i did and didnt crack the 2 nuts before removing the 2 main bolts that hold it inplace :wave:

ah yeah ive heard people complain about that... you wouldn't be able to show me in a pic which nuts to crack before i undo which bolts...

would be very helpful

Baysidebluebnr34 Rising Star

Baysidebluebnr34

Posted
Posted

I rekon leave it on, go to track day see how it goes, then if it feels funny take it off for the next track day. This way you will be able to feel exectly what the change does.

Sam

Revhead Grand Master

Revhead

Posted
Posted

Yeah what Gordo said. HICAS makes it a bit difficult to hold a precise line mid-corner (because the computer decides it wants to change the angle of the back wheels :wave: ) and can make it feel a bit nervous. That said, to the day I sold it my Skyline still had the HICAS connected and working, once I got used to it I just let the rear end wander a little, and made small steering adjustments to keep my line accurate. It does feel a bit wierd but you can drive around it.

Also consider though, the effect a lock bar may have on your insurance/wallet. This is second hand info so I'd be checking it yourself if you're concerned, but I'm told lock bars are illegal because they are a modification to the steering systems. You could be defected for it, and if you crash you may not be covered. I never followed this up myself because I had no need to, but it might be worth checking :D

ZENNON Grand Master

ZENNON

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the advice guys

Yeah what Gordo said. HICAS makes it a bit difficult to hold a precise line mid-corner (because the computer decides it wants to change the angle of the back wheels :no: ) and can make it feel a bit nervous.

Yeah... I think Ill see how I go but Im inclined to remove it...

Also consider though, the effect a lock bar may have on your insurance/wallet. This is second hand info so I'd be checking it yourself if you're concerned, but I'm told lock bars are illegal because they are a modification to the steering systems. You could be defected for it, and if you crash you may not be covered. I never followed this up myself because I had no need to, but it might be worth checking :kiss:

Nah itll be fine! :laugh:

r_speedfreak_r Proficient

r_speedfreak_r

Posted
Posted

where do people get the lock bars from? I got an r33 and was going to take mine off but didnt really know where to get the lock bars made up. I've taken corners at high speeds before and i think the skyrice handles fine even with the hicas

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

I really had no problems with the handling under hicas, I just didnt like a computer cutting in on my driving, I used the Tomei kit, which gives you the option of going back quite easily for the 33, with the 32s the Hicas is hydraulic and a weight saving can be had by its removal.

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

If you want full control then remove hicas...

If you want some help then leave it in...

I used to race go karts and hicas just messed with my driving style so i removed it quick smart... Im just used to not having it so it was an easy decision for me... Also it does scuff your tyres on the inside edge on the rear faster then with out hicas...

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

hicas is 4 wheel steer...

Well not really 4 wheel steer just more like the rear wheels moving slightlly a couple of degres to help through corners...

There are 2 types of hicas, there is the one where the whole rear suspension moves like found in the HR31's and then there are ones with an actually second steering rack just for the rear wheels like in the 32,33,34...

Personally i dont like hicas...

Squishy Experienced

Squishy

Posted
Posted

My bf purchased a tomei lock out kit for his 33 off nengun.. as his car was actually CRAB WALKING as a result of of the hicas LOCKING ON in one direction..

It's all been installed now.. and car drives straight! :P

In 32's it is much easier to fix as the hicas is mehanical where as the 33's have an electrical one.

I drove my 32 with the hicas light on and it was gay to drift.. as the back wheels had a mind of their own!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...