Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok we are talking in 3 different threads now about soft brake pedals.

What makes them soft?

What can be done?

We are not talking about brakes that don't work. It's just that doughy feel you get at the start of the brake pedal travel. I actually thought mine were completely stuffed when I upgraded my master cylinder but it seems that lots of Skylines have mushy pedals at the start of travel then get hard further down.

How about you? How does your pedal feel? How far does it go before you get the hard part if you have the mushy part as well? What rotors/pads/master cylinder? How recently was the system bled? I want to get an idea of what is normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137090-the-new-soft-brake-pedal-thread/
Share on other sites

don't know whether old brake lines would make a difference, given that they're rubber..

I have heard from people who have done it that a master cylinder stopper makes an enormous difference to brake pedal feel. not sure if that's at the start of the travel or just for hard braking though, the car was being tracked.

well you can get a firm pedal on a GTR, mine is brilliant.

Setup is as follows:

n1 brembo calipers front

standard calipers rear

hawk black pads all round

new rubber brake lines

standard master cylinder

regularly bled fluid.

Some things I would suggest:

* New brake lines.....15yo rubber is terrible. I had to put new rubber lines on for targa and they are excellent. I guess braided might be better but why pay extra?

* Regular fluid bleed

* Master Cylinder stopper (I cant do this but would love to, firewall flexes up to 2cm)

* some pads like bendix ultimate have a paper backing to the pad - you can remove this for extra feel.

If all fails try a new master cylinder or at least new seals. Also rebuild the pistons in the caliper.

my brakes don't feel soft at all...

my setup, which i had done about a month ago, is:

- stock rotors and calipers

- bendix ultiamtes

- motul fluid

- master cylinder brace ($65 from ebay!)

i can highly recommend a master cylinder brace / brace cylinder stopper :P

link for my BCS: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-BNR3...1QQcmdZViewItem

R33 ones are only $50 from that seller: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

BRace only helps with softness when you press the pedal down. The intial softness is not related to the brace, because the firewall hasn't flexed yet.

Also forgot to add, that I have changed the rubber lines. It didn't do anything which means that the old lines were fine.

That's interesting about the rotor and pad thickness. My pads are brand new, but the rotors are still the stock ones.

How thick are they meant to be new?

Edited by MANWHORE

ok,

well i have an r32 gtr, and my brake pedal for normal driving is fine, very nice and firm, but when i take it on the track and over say 140kph, there is a spongy point

when i start breaking and then it goes hard. So do you think that would be the firewall flexing or brake lines??

Brake lines then I guess. As the heat gets into the system from the heavier braking the lines axpand and flex a little.

I think with brakes you almost automatically bleed them if you have problems because that eliminates the cheapest issue.

Ok we are talking in 3 different threads now about soft brake pedals.

What makes them soft?

What can be done?

We are not talking about brakes that don't work. It's just that doughy feel you get at the start of the brake pedal travel. I actually thought mine were completely stuffed when I upgraded my master cylinder but it seems that lots of Skylines have mushy pedals at the start of travel then get hard further down.

How about you? How does your pedal feel? How far does it go before you get the hard part if you have the mushy part as well? What rotors/pads/master cylinder? How recently was the system bled? I want to get an idea of what is normal.

i have a series 2 R33 and the brakes are awesome.... No mushiness at all...... the only thing that i have noticed is that if the brakes are really cold the first time you use them (like on hwy or similar) they don't grab quite as well..... However they work just fine after that initiial touch.... Great brakes actually, they pulled me up in a hurry to avoid a wallaby :laugh:

Does anyone sell the Master brace in Sydney ?

R32 master brace $65: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-BNR3...1QQcmdZViewItem

R33 master brace $50: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

delivered to your door in a week...

for less than half the price i don't see the problem....

apparently they have a warehouse with stock in melbourne

if they are out of stock it comes from hong kong

Warren.

i have a series 2 R33 and the brakes are awesome.... No mushiness at all...... the only thing that i have noticed is that if the brakes are really cold the first time you use them (like on hwy or similar) they don't grab quite as well..... However they work just fine after that initiial touch.... Great brakes actually, they pulled me up in a hurry to avoid a wallaby :laugh:

What pads?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...