Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys can any body help me 1 of my mates want to find an ex-drift car or street/drift car does any1 no any sites to find them or an importer that specialises in them.... i have check heaps of website only to find lighty modded car and if i can buy direct from japan.

any info would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137159-importing-a-roaddrift-car/
Share on other sites

not 100% sure, but pretty sure that for a car to be complied it has to be pretty much stock- that means exhaust, cooler, etc. so when you get it imported you may have to buy a heap of stock items to fit to the car, or if you go through an importer they may be able to sort that out for you.

  • 1 month later...

i only really know about importing car's for race rally use.

to import a car thats not going to be RWC'd and street driven you need to have a level 3 cams license, (or a national license)

My advice is you have to be very serious about doing it, e.g. the cost of a license is around the $1200 to 1300 a year + medical checkup + log booking + something else that i can't remember + you have to be a member of a cams approved club.

Your car, should you choose to import a race rally vehicle, will have to fit your vehicle with a cam's approved roll cage and probably other safety stuff that i can't remember right now.

ummm sorry lost my train of thought, check out the CAMs website, i can't remember it now, but google is your friend.

SKY031, ahhahaha, Trogdor The Burninator, ahahah that brings back good memories.

there really isn't such a thing as a level 3 license anymore... but the new equivalent is basically the national racing license.

In any case there's only two ways to bring in a "ex-drift" car:

find something made in or before 1988, or

bring one in as a race import (which means it can NEVER be road registered).

Now from my experience, 99.9% of people who ask for an ex-drift track car or a street drift car don't have the necessary licensing needed to bring in a race import... and most often they want to road register the car too once it arrives. If you fall into either of these stereotypes, then unfortunately your only solution is to buy a 1988 or older car. So this means signing with an importer and waiting till a S13 or cefiro, which has been thrashed to an inch of its life by a japanese dude with no respect for his $1500 beater (with dori dori mods) comes up for sale :( Or you could buy an older R31, FC RX7 etc that's moderately well maintained then thrash it to an inch of its life yourself ;) Just keep in mind you'll be competing with about 100 other aussies who have the same notion in their noggins.

You are better off buying a car locally, and taking it to a workshop and having them set it up for you. If you're down in melbourne, come see us at Driftline (link) we get silvias, skylines etc traded in cheap pretty regularly, and we've converted em from scratch (from seam welding the chassis to setting up suspension to engine swaps). We've even got a couple of demo cars for sale if you can't wait :)

there really isn't such a thing as a level 3 license anymore...

Yeah i just left the "level 3" name in there cause some importers are still calling it that, prestige motorsport use to call it that, not sure if they do.

But anyway yeah, funkyz got the goods.

  • 2 weeks later...

what are the costs involved in importing a car (Freight, duty and any hidded costs) and where is the best place to find a modded r32 gtr for track use only!???

What price would i be looking at for the car and do i need any special licence to purchase it as i have been also told this before??

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

costs involved in a race/rally import are exactly the same as any other import except that there is no compliance fee.

You still pay freight, duty and GST on the FOB.

You need a CAMS PC or PR license or higher to import, and a race history for the driver and planned events for the car.

As Shan said you can never get full rego on a race/rally car, you can get limited registration on a rally car that lets you drive it to and from CAMS events, practice days and workshops

what are the costs involved in importing a car (Freight, duty and any hidded costs) and where is the best place to find a modded r32 gtr for track use only!???
Freight's around $1800, duty depends on how much you spend on the car etc. There is no hidden costs, well, that depends on who you use. Sometimes during compliance you get stung with cost of new brake pads and tyres, but if you're gettin a race import then there's no such thing as compliance.

For an R32 GTR I'd suggest buying a regular lightly modded (that can get thru compliance) R32 GTR, and bringing it in under the SEVS scheme, and then modifying it yourself in Australia... its cheap enough here. The cost of modded R32's are still pretty high in japan, plus you have to compete with buyers from the UK New Zealand, most of Europe, the Middle East, Hong Kong and Canada. If you were to get one thru SEVS you can register it for road use whenever you want, which is great for the resale value. Race imports can NEVER be registered for road use.

What price would i be looking at for the car and do i need any special licence to purchase it as i have been also told this before?
Modded R32's range from as low as 10k landed for one that's been thrashed to within an inch of its life and will most probably need a new engine after you thrash it that extra inch.... and as high as 23k+ for highly modded ones (eg: this, this, and this). If you're asking what license you need to get, then you're a long way away from being able to bring in a race import (it takes about a couple of years to get all the necessary licenses that let you get a race import). Then you need to show active participation in official events, and a demonstration of why you NEED to have a special import to compete.
www.king-buyer.co.jp

i think thats it. they seem to have plenty of drift cars some ex d1, they seem very pricey though. But the cars they sell look like quality

king buyer also comes with really crappy service, a redundant website that lists cars weeks after they're sold etc... the list goes on and on.

basically they're a japanese dealership that's realised that if you show some whitey's from the US, UK, Australia etc some eyecandy they'll pay thru the nose for em (so they WILL milk you for all you've got). 90% of the time when you contact em the car's sold (long before they're listed), and they'll show you some "alternates" that are just as good... well in their eyes anyways. The cars you see on their site is just bait that's been prettied up :miner:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...