Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, I am selling my car, but before I do I need to figure out how much to sell it for (hence why this thread isn't in the for sale) thread. And if there's any1 out there who wants to buy one.

Please post what asking price I should put the car up for. I will give the car a full service, respray and a cut n polish b4 selling it, so I'd expect the price to reflect it...

What do you guys reckon.

Good things about it:

  • No major accidents, just bumps n scratches from runaway shopping carts and bad reverse parkers
  • Not thrashed like a turbo car, regularly serviced
  • VERY low insurance premium and excess
  • Used to be a family car in japan
  • Only 2 owners so far
  • Full logs and genuine 60,000 kms on engine (with logs from japan to back it up)
  • Looks just like a GTSt so no one knows its the slower version
  • Ideal for a P plater getting into sportscars, or if you wanna be associated with the Skyline prestige, or if you have insurance probleems (rating 6 or 5)
  • You cannot import an R32 GTS into Australia anymore, making this a pretty rare car to get. Compliance for an R32 is now around $4000.
  • After it came to Australia I found that it had aftermarket hi flo stainless steel extractors on it. After a while the mild steel piping that was used after the catalytic converter started corroding, so the whole system was replaced to a 2.5" stainless steel system with a 3" cat (hi flo). So now the whole exhaust is stainless steel and hi flo (no restrictions) from the engine back. (This cost me a total of $900 have the bill 4 it too :))

As a rough guide, i'm on rating 5 and I pay $1500 to Just cars insurance, I'm 21 and on my P's.

Oh and the reason I'm selling... well... COZ I'M GETTIN A R32 GTR :D

PS: All stupid and offtopic posts will be deleted.

updated post with relevant info. Think i'm lookin at $14k or any near negotiable offer... do u guys think this is fair?

I is gettin an R32 GTR, but that's off topic.

Vickii, lol you've seen the car, it looks the part, prolly not as fast as the one u had, but i've never seen you floor yours so I dunno. Its an idea :)

I think a price around 12-14 is a fair ask for one.

only cause of the LOW as Km's!!! That's always a massive bonus.

Being that you can't import it anymore i don't think will make it worth a great deal more... a bit but we ain't talking $1,000's

u'r getting a R34GT-T v??? damn... talk about getting back on the horse, u've just got back on farlap!! :(

Well if u do, hopefully i'll be joining ya in a couple of months.

Shan, car sounds mint, i think 14K is definitley fair considering the K's. Also think it's a good car for Vickii here :D

rofl

im selling mine once i have resprayed it.... hoping for about 17k.

then going to sell the daewoo for whatever... then get a loan for about 15k to buy my GTR.

but not a 89 model... more like a 93/94

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...