Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright, my engine should be getting dropped back into the car Monday/Tuesday but am concerned about my radiator, oil cooler and oil pump. I am going to have around 400rwhp when dynoed, so are the any recomendations on aftermarket gear or will the standard items be able to handle it?

In case you don't already know, I have a R33 GTST S1 with the following mods:

G-Max Wheels rear: 18x9.5 with 265’s front: 18x8.5

Tein hight and rebound adjustable suspension

Full 3inch custom exhaust with Magic Cat and twin Mufflers

Ball bearing T70 turbo on X-Force highmount manifold

Turbosmart 48mm Pro-Gate wastegate

100mm think Front Mount Inter Cooler

Blitz blow off valve

Sard fuel pressure Regulator

Sard 550cc injectors

Walbro 500 horsepower fuel pump

Motec Enginge Management System (M600)

Exceedy 5 puck clutch

Pod air filter

Oil catch can

Additional thermo fan (2 in total)

Bonnet vents

Isotta Steering wheel

DBA 4000series sloted disks alround with braided lines

Braided fuel-line, blow-by, breather and radiator overflow hoses

New chrome radiator overflow tank

Gates Racing radiator hoses

Viper 790VX Pager car alarm

20thou Arias Pistions

Adjustable cam gears

Full gasket and bearing kit

Cometic head gasket

GTR rods

ARP head studs

Is this enough to keep the car from overheating?

Edit - f**ked up the hp figure.

Edited by phee
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137670-getting-high-hp-and-staying-there/
Share on other sites

Bigger injectors, 740's is where your gonna be at now :D

Walbro - wont be upto the task either. Time for a surgetank, walbro lifter and bosch feeding the rail.

What oil pump did ya stick onto it?

And i would be using a bigger ally radiator... around $660 for them give or take

Got ducting on the intercooler?

What I mean is that air is directed into the 'core' of the intercooler and then ducted through to the core of the radiator.

The idea is to 'seal off' the gaps around the edges of the intercooler so that the air hitting it has no where to go but through the core.Quite a bit of air will happily 'wash' around the intercooler over the end tanks etc. if there are lovely gaps there as they create a relative low pressure zone. It's best if you can direct the air into the core in a sort of a slightly 'angled in' way rather than just sealing it around the end tanks.

The goal is to channel all the air into the core of the intercooler and through the radiator and then perhaps out a back facing bonnet scoop angled towards the radiator. Alternatively grabbing some washers and longer bolts for the bonet hinge you raise the rear of the bonnet so that you have a small gap at the back edge when its closed.

Make sure you do the same thing for mounting an oil cooler and always remember to have a radiator shroud for any fans you have on it, electric or otherwise.

Edited by rev210

oh forgot..

turbo beanie and thermal tape the dump pipe. If you have the coin then ceramic coat the turbo exhaust housing, dump pipe and x-force manifold and tape it as well. That will get the under bonnet temps down big time.

The pod filter is in a nice cold air induction box too I hope, with a good air feed.

upgrading the cams in my opinion is a priority. You will increase the power band a great deal, decrease the rpm needed to get boost , decrease intake charge temps due to lower restriction at the valves and reduce the needed boost pressure to make the same power if you decide to limit/cap it at 400 or whatever.

You have some very expensive supporting mods. You don't build motors around this sort of power target without changing them (cams), thats what I call a half assed approach.

you spent all your money on the motec lol.

that above list should be fine. the fuel pump will be feeling the presure.

just put anotherone in there to help it. (they can fit) and are cheap enough.

the turbo.. id keep an eye on it. to help it stay alive just do the nessesary cooldown n shit.

keep the boost to 1.1bar max and it will love ya for it :mad:

i dont see an oil cooler there? just jap have some coom serk copies for shit money. hows a 36row for 150 bucks grab ya :)

PWR radiator, regualar coolant changes header tank

Tape up any hot pipes, ie exhaust, intercooler pipes.

ANd fuel system upgrades....

These are all mentioned but that would be my priority based on your location.

I said PWR to cause you get what you pay for, PWR cores are lifetime warranty and are substantially heavier and higher grade alloy than competitors offerings this will help with heat soak!!!

Cheers

I have just finished reading the N1 oil pump thread in General Discussions, and now I bit concerned about getting an N1 pump, however I will need to get something.

Another fuel pump? As in aditional, or get rid of the one I have and buy something with a higher cc? Radiator will need to be upgraded regardless.

Oil cooler, can someone explain this a bit further?

And yeah I spent all the money on the Motec, and it came with a free R33 Skyline :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...