Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was just wondering if anyone has experienced trouble once getting over 300wrkw with an RB25DET. The engine has enough mods under the sun to support it but once you start to run a fair whack of boost(~1.5)the power just drops off after 4500-500rpm thought it was spark so we put in a CDI and didnt seem to help. it seem to be pointing to weak valve springs springs but it has tomei springs, only standard cams though, runs approx. 8.7:1 compression and a 107 or 109 RON fuel. Anyone got any ideas?

Has anyone every had trounble with there VVT/VCT or whatever its called?

Any thoughts would be helpful thanks fella's

Cheers :(

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138519-trouble-over-300rwkw-with-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Is the CDI working properly? What condition are the coil in or does CDI replace the coils?

personally i wouldnt have chosen the CDI route, the HKS ignitor box thingy is the way to go, keep the stock coils that way

What about the exhaust?

Care to list all the mods/specs etc? Might be something a miss in there :(

I'm fairly new to the RB engines, but in alot of other engines, it'd either indicate turbo running out (Although this would equate to a pressure drop, which you haven't mentioned) or most likely the heads/cam aren't flowing enough.

Coil have been replaced with the CDI system theres enough spark there to light half of tassie :dry: I think the turbo is a GT3540? So its not outta puff. Exhaust is 3.5" so that shouldnt be a problem. This is not my car, im just trying to find out some info for them. The head is also ported so that shouldnt be a problem.

On the dyno graph it heads straigh up looking like its gonna too 400kw but then get to 4500-5000rpm and just falls over, not a miss but just faids away and makes around 300-320rwkw

Edited by muaythailuke

I cant see it being the head its not like it was hugly ported just cleaned up the dags etc. I dont think its the dyno either as they have had more powerful cars on there without trouble with wheelspin.

I will try and get the dyno graph scanned onto computer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...