Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just joined up and did a search, no results so here goes.

Looking at a R33 on this forum and need to know ball park figures for fuel economy.

I have never owned a boosted car before so do not really have a good grip on fuel consumption for such a car.

Also anything to look out for when buying one (set on a R33) such as common faults from production etc.

Thanks guys

Joel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138646-r33-gtst-fuel-economy/
Share on other sites

There have been a few threads on this. Mine did about 14L/100km in the winter on the stock ECU (with intercooler, exhaust, pod), now does around 12.5-13L/100km and the only reason i can give is hotter weather. Stockers should do 10-11L/100km from factory specs. A Power FC or other aftermarket computer helps lower fuel consumption on modified cars back to near stock when cruising.

There's a thread here for what to look out for when buying a Skyline.

Edited by govich

fuel economy depends on how you drive it. i drive rather 'spiritedly' and i get about 16-17L/100k. i have full exhaust, pod, frount mount and 14psi. that is city driving. on the highway (even if its just 80kmh zones) it drops to about 11L/100k.

R33 GTST

mild hi-flowed turbo @ 1bar, PFC, fuel pump, reg, full 3" exh, pod ~210rwkw

Consistent 450km/55L - 12.2L/100km

Highway driving ~600/55L - 9.17L/100km

Edited by Lazy-Bastard

lazy-bastard: thats mad fuel economy, my car struggles to see ~340 to a tank and thats normal everyday driving. Will my fuel economy increase by heaps with a pfc?

my brother has spoken to a few drifters and they get consistand 400+ to a tank even though they have over 250kw.

i think its tune dependant i think. Im running 209kw on 12psi and im on around 11-12 psi everyday, fuel economy is poor. I have been told by tuners and others that my fuel economy will be heaps better with 250kw and a pfc.

lazy-bastard: thats mad fuel economy, my car struggles to see ~340 to a tank and thats normal everyday driving. Will my fuel economy increase by heaps with a pfc?

my brother has spoken to a few drifters and they get consistand 400+ to a tank even though they have over 250kw.

My car had an SAFC2 when I bought it and I was getting about 400ks/55L, so the PFC tune did improve economy a bit.

fair enough, i think if you have a conservative tune, then you will see good km's to a tank. Instead of dumping a whole heap of fuel for no reason, you use every bit of fuel that is allowed in.

1998 R33 gts25t manual completly standard, i could get 500km for a full tank driving it like a granny, i normally get about 200-240km from half a tank of 95 octane depending on how it drive it.

I got my SAFC II tuned and i managed to pick up about 50 ks in town, if i drive it now i would see 400 km in town out of 55 liters but highway is only about 500 if driven nice. I have already changed the O2 sensor and makes no differance.

On average i fill up with 35-40L and get around 350-450k to a tank depending on the type of driving i am doing

Mods are just a exhaust & air filter

I read somewhere that they are meant to do 9L/100k....

I get around 14-15 l/p100k's around town if i drive carefully.... If I hammer it, it can be as high as 19!!!

Just did a run from Cairns to Cooktown and it averaged 14.5. That was sitting at 130kph-150kph (open roads with no-one on them - just gotta watch for cows and roos)

On the way home I sat 110-120kph and I think that has improves it to around 12....

That is in a series II R33 with exhaust and 10psi.......

:(

  • 7 months later...

Guys when doing highway trip i dont get much more out of a tank then if i am city cruising..

I get about 380-400km from 50 liters in the city pretty consistantly, but do a 200k round trip on the highway in there too and am lucky to see 420-430 from 50 litres.. I would have expected above 450km's from 50 ltrs.

Is this a sign my o2 sensor may need replacing, or is this common for a skyline not to get good highway economy.. This is my 2nd r33 and both cars were the same.

Series 1 rb25det exhaust, cooler, pod, 8-9 psi, .8mm copper plugs which are newish...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...