Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone just need your help have searched the forum n tried, what could be wrong with my r33 gtst series1. I was driving just cruising around on a hot victorian day, when slowed down to stop on a traffic light my car suddenly stop running, all the power lights still running stereo on and nothing that would suspect its the battery. Jump start it no go. Push start it again n again no go. den went n bought a new battery with 470cca on it, still no go. when I turn the ingnition on I can hear the fuel pump priming, then turn key all the way to start, all i hear is just a click, dash lights dim then nothing not even a crank just a click.Ive checked the crank angle sensor, afm (cleaned), push all the plugs making sure they are connected properly, tap the starter motor with a hammer,checked all the fuse in the car, boot, and front engine but all is fine and still no go. what could be wrong. Here are my mods fron mount, piggy back fuel controler(e-manage), boost control 10psi, changed my ignition to a waste spark. Please help!!! THANKS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138661-help-car-wont-start-whats-wrong/
Share on other sites

But there's still power. Headlights n interior lamps work all electronic works, put in a new battery with 470ccamps on it but still doesnt start. tried push starting it no go, jump start it still nothing all I hear is a click thats it no crank or anything its not turning over....

But there's still power. Headlights n interior lamps work all electronic works, put in a new battery with 470ccamps on it but still doesnt start. tried push starting it no go, jump start it still nothing all I hear is a click thats it no crank or anything its not turning over....

If thats the case it has to be the starter motor its prob seezed up on you or something, when you try to push start it does it try to crank over if it does your starter motor shouldnt be seezed it would be an electrical prob.

good luck with that.

Yeah I was thinking maybe the igniter does'nt work cuz of my waste spark set up. But why does'nt it crank. I can hear a click but that's it. Does anyone know how to check the ecu error code. Sorry guys but realy desperate here!! Thanks for the replies

Does anyone know how to check the ecu error code. Sorry guys but realy desperate here!! Thanks for the replies

You have to get the car to a workshop with the computer to plug into the car to read the error code as far as I am aware unless there is an aftermarket tool to do this?

Probably easier and quicker cause of time of day that you call the NRMA or local motoring group in your state and get them to come out and check it out.

Drew.

if it clicks and doesn't turn over the starter isn't working, either because it is dead, its not getting enough power (battery or alternator), or it's relay is stuffed.

Pull the starter off, clutch start it down to an auto electrician and get them to check the starter and its solenoid.

yeah id guess starter motor. only problem i had with that was i had to have mine rebuilt. couldnt find a second hand one. still only took a day for my mechanic to take it out, send it away to be rebuilt and put it back in. think it was $260 all up.

this sounds like a starter motor. because the click you hear when you turn the switch is the start relay cliking. but then again why would the car die in mid traffic?? i mean the starter doesnt run while youre drinving. have you ignition cheked, look into your rebuilded ignition setup, maybe somthing wanst hooked up properly. When i tell people to stick to their stock type ignition systen ie the 6 coil setup, they ont tend to listen.

gday

you could have blown a fuse?

thats what happened to me i was at a stop sign and then my car just died, i tried to clutch start it but it had no effect, later on my mechanic said i had blown a fuse.

so why dont you check that out.

hope this helps, goodluck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...