Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my 33 GTST back in Feb. Whoever had owned in Japan had done their best to make it look like a GT-R.

Of course the first thing I did before turning the key was to rip off the Grille badge.

I have since ordered some correct "T" badges from Just Jap.

With their impending arrival I need to know how to stick them on. The GTR badge was just stuck on with double sided tape. I'm not gonna do that so icoz I wanna do it properly. If anyone has any hints on how to attach the bonnet badge to a "T", lemme know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13986-almost-embarassed-to-ask-this/
Share on other sites

What grill you got? If you have a GTR grill you can put it on, but you have to put something forward to stick on onto. I used bit of liquid nails, but friday night some jerk stole my "s"

so now there is a blob there and its hard to get off :P

I'd just use superglue if u have a normal grill, but it will mean you can't ever take it off without leaving a mark probably, and it can still still get ripped off unfortunately by whichever assholes are in the habbit of stealing such things.

Good on tho mate, now run along ya young scamp.

:lol:

Use double sided automotive tape.

All car badges are held on with it, it doesn't melt off in the heat, and you can guarantee that some prick will steal your badge one day, it's better to have it stuck there lightly, (as opposed to liquid nails) so they do less damage when they steal it...

If you stick it on the grille, and its ultra hard to remove, the person who tries to pinch it will crack the shits and just smash the grille to get it off.

I agree with R31 Skyline Chick 100%

There are some 'auto' grade double sided tapes that fix the plastic strips on the side of the cars. If these heavy strips don't fall off (most of them don't), then i am sure it can easily support your badge. You may need to go to a panel beater, as most of the commercial brands found at bunnings, k-mart, etc. are crap.

PS: Let me congratulate you on a very wise decision. Some gt-r copy kits look good, but to see the gt-r badge on a gts is just disapointing.

i fully agree with Al. Good on ya Wardest. Sick of GTR copy GTS-T's floating around.

Saw a beautiful 32 GTS-T in my town the other day. (only other 32 i've ever seen) Drove past it to take a better look but was disgusted at the try hard GTR badge stuck on the back. What are ppl thinking?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
×
×
  • Create New...