Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sweet as. Started editing some RAW photos yet?

Can make them look really good with just the initial processing in photoshop.

Post some up if you edit some :)

Like I said to you, I really wish we got more photos but that's just the way it went lol.

Yeah I have to get my FC Hako working again. The latest firmware seems to have screwed something out and it's dropping out. Was gonna have a look at everything at the drags but it kept dropping out early in the run

Got a thread uo in the for sale section but thought i'd throw it in here as a local sale wold be alot easier lol..

18x9.5 +20 BBS RG-R wheels

R34 GTR Brembo Brakes

PM for details

Cheers

Matt

Mmmmmm Brembo's haha

You gonna get your photo DVD from airlie? :P

That goes for all who were there to

Well have the Wideband in now:

AEMGauge.jpg

Seems a little laggy (not to bad, half a second probably tops) but I dont know if it gets better as it gets hotter or if the gauge is just slow. The main point is the analog out from the gauge to run with FC-Edit so I can bring up the AFR's on the laptop and in map watch. Should make tuning alot nicer

Pacey: You might know this... Is there a way to bring up two map watches in FC Edit? I want to have AFR and Knock maps both up, but I dont think its possible......

Had a play yesturday but didnt really get anywhere.

This looks like much more then 2 degrees of camber........

Camber.jpg

Used some Turtlewax bug and tar remover on my rear pods to get all the tar off that the tires flick up. Works a treat that stuff

Edited by 89CAL

Lol looks closer to 5!

Yeah I think pedders may have dropped the ball on that one. My report said 2.1 degrees or something.... Doesnt look right lol.

Did a little playing around with my tune today. Trying to fix a funny spot. 5th gear foot down and it goes 13.2 then climbs to 14ish then back down, weird. Added some fuel to a cell that looked like it might be the problem but its still doing it so not sure what the go Is....

  • 2 weeks later...

So got my new front cover for my turbo made up......

The thing sounds even louder then before! I thought without the anti surge slots would make it alot quieter.

Anyway the thing is so rich now I'm lighting up the night with backfires so will need to play with the tune on the weekend (10:1 AFR's atm)

Wheelspin in second easily now but, if it wheelspins in 3rd after tuning then I may have solved the problem with the HKS GT2835 KAI and its disapointing results in comparison with the Pro S

2d31d453.jpg

dc9cb18e.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to !
    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
×
×
  • Create New...