Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rob, any reason for the cp's?

Dysonest ya flamin mongrel - Strawberry 180sx Just needs RB25/26 IMO and I'd be happy. :P

or buy a busted ass 180 and do it all myself.

hmmmmm decisions.

Edited by Force Fed

have a look pacey u f**kin dickhead, old mate asked about the test n tune and i commented a possitive response.

i just think ur too cool for school... or maybe not obviously

i know that i have a fair idea about skylines and imports in general but feel free to be a "know it all" and call me what u will

as u put it, "Yeap, another person that reads forums, and thinks they know everything so they think its ok to foul threads up with smart ass immature shit" u are doing this by replying to my shit

hahaha just goes to show that u are just as bad as everyone else on here. but then again u really do know everything

Rob, any reason for the cp's?

Dysonest ya flamin mongrel - Strawberry 180sx Just needs RB25/26 IMO and I'd be happy. :P

or buy a busted ass 180 and do it all myself.

hmmmmm decisions.

yeah looks ok, how about u get this job first lol.

and CP's cos they are decent and cheap. dunno about the nitto rods $$ ?? herd good stuff bout nitto thou

for what it's worth, I've found manley rods and JE pistons to suit the 26 (25 wouldnt be hard to get the same for I'd say) for 1250 or so delivered.

and yeah, gotta talk to my mate about it more. hopefully can pull strings n get out there ;)

Edited by Force Fed

I did contract work for a performance shop for a while here tuning imports for them. MOst notable was a RX7 rotor that wanted to jump off the dyno. Had a GT3540 strapped to it, running 20psi. But I got busy doing other things like rebuilding my own engine, and getting my car back on the road.

An RX7 wanting to "jump off" the dyno with a 3540?

LOL. Ever thought that MAYBE the car wasnt strapped down properly? Because if it truly wanted to jump, then shit, Kent Battles XR6T ute must launch off the dyno given it churns 1000rwhp.

There is a difference between strapped down properly and trying to jump and not strapped n coming onto boost.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Edited by Force Fed

When you come down, Force Fed, we got a spare room at ours if you want to crash. Dysonest is usually there too, haha. Speaking of which, Pub Thursday night, Dysonest?

Didnt see this until now, Churrs. May take you up on that. No doubt I'll see you when you're up here eh? And besides 2 33's in the drive would probably make most people moist.

When you come down, Force Fed, we got a spare room at ours if you want to crash. Dysonest is usually there too, haha. Speaking of which, Pub Thursday night, Dysonest?

Didnt see this until now, Churrs. May take you up on that. No doubt I'll see you when you're up here eh? And besides 2 33's in the drive would probably make most people moist.

2 ?? what about the other 2 thousand ? haha

and pub sounds good rob.

Didnt see this until now, Churrs. May take you up on that. No doubt I'll see you when you're up here eh? And besides 2 33's in the drive would probably make most people moist.

2 R33's in the marina? :P

I'm thinking about CP pistons and spool rods. But I'm not going for big numbers

I had CP's in my GTiR motor with eagle rods.

Good rods, will never use CP's again though personally...

Mainly because of the ring gaps they specify to use......

Also

HOLY CRAP I'm in love. 248522_10150201384734850_218306534849_6932770_12124_n1.jpg

And yes, we will be moored in the marina :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

I had CP's in my GTiR motor with eagle rods.

Good rods, will never use CP's again though personally...

Mainly because of the ring gaps they specify to use......

yeah herd the rings are a shit with CP... gotta bed them within a few minutes of start up or some shit

either get cp's n see how ya go or cp's with different rings :/

This shitty f**ken server at work is about as powerful as a scooter.

keeps locking up on me when i'm on SAU (LOL)

Yeah, Will from JHH told us that in person when we were down for gods kitchen and went to see him with Nick. Basically a drag ring or some shit.

have a look pacey u f**kin dickhead, old mate asked about the test n tune and i commented a possitive response.

i just think ur too cool for school... or maybe not obviously

i know that i have a fair idea about skylines and imports in general but feel free to be a "know it all" and call me what u will

as u put it, "Yeap, another person that reads forums, and thinks they know everything so they think its ok to foul threads up with smart ass immature shit" u are doing this by replying to my shit

hahaha just goes to show that u are just as bad as everyone else on here. but then again u really do know everything

Whatever hey, you've already proven that you're just a smart mouthed dickhead, right from your first post, with no constructive input.

And no I don't know everything, but I help out where I Can, inntead of being a smart mouthed wanker, that thinks he's funny.

An RX7 wanting to "jump off" the dyno with a 3540?

LOL. Ever thought that MAYBE the car wasnt strapped down properly? Because if it truly wanted to jump, then shit, Kent Battles XR6T ute must launch off the dyno given it churns 1000rwhp.

There is a difference between strapped down properly and trying to jump and not strapped n coming onto boost.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

There is a difference - Especially when the car weighs around 800kgs (half the weight) NOS is involved, and is making around 800rwhp.

And don't you worry, it was strapped down well. It was coming on VERY hard which was the issue.

2 R33's in the marina? :P

I'm thinking about CP pistons and spool rods. But I'm not going for big numbers

HAve you looked at the 3.4l stroker kit? I know its a little bit more, but its good value if you can stretch a grand or two more.

By the time you by rods, pistons, rings, rod bolts and bearinigs, and balance you're around $3k - $3.5k

3.4L stroker has a new crank, rods, pistons, bolts, bearings and rings and is $5k. I think it is already balanced.

WHen you think about it, $1500 really isn't that much more for a torque monster. Plus you wouldn't have many lag issues.

Edited by The Mafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...