Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not a bad list Sean, quite a lot of money for bugger all gain as with any VQ35, and that is why i sold my 350Z was gonna cost too much ....the $ vs HP gain. Full Exhaust, Intake and Flash tune will do wonders for your fuel economy on that engine, and give it a good extra 20-30kw. Need some JDM in ya face deep dish rims would set that car off nicely. I've got a nice set for ya but your will need wide bodykit ;) .

180SX Project is going full steam ahead now, I want the car ready for 2014 WTAC Open Class and Drift it as well. Working out a list of parts I need to be competitive and not do it half arsed.

So far:

-Hypertune Plenum

-Hypertune 3" Throttle Body

-Hypertune Fuel Rail

-Powered By Max full Suspension Catalogue under it.

-Wilwood 6pot Brake 355mm Front

-Wilwood 4pot 330mm Rear

-Tilton Adjustable Pedal Box

-Wilwood Bias Valve

-Wilwood Dual Hand Brake Caliper

-Vipec V44

-Mazworx Dry Sump Kit (Maybe)

-Massive Aero Kit Custom Made.

-Fuel System out of R32 Drag Car

-Bride Zeta III Seat

-Cam Spec roll cage

-New Engine when this one shits its self

-Custom Titanium Exhaust 3" Side pipe

-Custom Titanium Screamer pipe aimed out the bonnet :woot:

-Massive 305mm Semi Slick tyres Rear.

Gonna be mental can't wait

180SX Project is going full steam ahead now, I want the car ready for 2014 WTAC Open Class and Drift it as well. Working out a list of parts I need to be competitive and not do it half arsed.

So far:

-Hypertune Plenum

-Hypertune 3" Throttle Body

-Hypertune Fuel Rail

-Powered By Max full Suspension Catalogue under it.

-Wilwood 6pot Brake 355mm Front

-Wilwood 4pot 330mm Rear

-Tilton Adjustable Pedal Box

-Wilwood Bias Valve

-Wilwood Dual Hand Brake Caliper

-Vipec V44

-Mazworx Dry Sump Kit (Maybe)

-Massive Aero Kit Custom Made.

-Fuel System out of R32 Drag Car

-Bride Zeta III Seat

-Cam Spec roll cage

-New Engine when this one shits its self

-Custom Titanium Exhaust 3" Side pipe

-Custom Titanium Screamer pipe aimed out the bonnet :woot:

-Massive 305mm Semi Slick tyres Rear.

Gonna be mental can't wait

What's your budget for aero look like?

The Dry Carbon Wing i'm looking at getting is over $2K that's just wing no stays gotta make my own and Carbon front splitter is $1K. Rear Diffuser and shit like that i can make myself. I got awesome idea's for bonnet, front bar and skirts.

Not a bad list Sean, quite a lot of money for bugger all gain as with any VQ35, and that is why i sold my 350Z was gonna cost too much ....the $ vs HP gain. Full Exhaust, Intake and Flash tune will do wonders for your fuel economy on that engine, and give it a good extra 20-30kw. Need some JDM in ya face deep dish rims would set that car off nicely. I've got a nice set for ya but your will need wide bodykit ;) .

You'd be suprised, there is a few more engine mods i can do to gain more killerwasps like a plenum spacer & better intake.

I'm still on my greens for another 12 months so i can't go crazy, but i think i will sell the car around then or at least throw a Vortech on it i'm really not sure.

I've got the same wheels i was going to sell, i put them on the car and liked them again.

Lol how do you go from hating to liking again crazy. I had a HKS turbo kit for my Zed that was gonna go on, ended up in the too hard basket. Supercharger would be good for a street/everyday car, low down grunt and plenty of torque and 0 lag.

Haha i know it's weird but when i got them out of the box i was like ehhhh not sure i like them.. then i put them on the car and lowered it and i liked them again.

Yeah i have heard impressive gains from Superchargers on these motors with not much work needed to the internals and what-not.

The only turbo/supercharged cars i've ever driven are F6/GT/GT-P's when i worked for Ford but never a built turbod car like a supra or skyline. I can't wait to get on my opens.

Why not Ikeya or cusco etc gear over the PoweredByMax stuff? not the greatest gear you can get, especially when your list has some of the 'bigger' name brands on the go

I had the Full Ikeya Formula Catalog on my R33 GTR don't get me wrong they are good but they just ain't worth the money i'm not forking out 5k + again for suspension arms, my mate down the road makes his own suspension arms and components on his off road buggy i could get him to make me some custom chromoly ones and copy the ikeya arms on the R32 Drag Car but couldn't be bothered i'm gonna give the PBM arms a go have heard plenty of good feedback about them. The car is gonna weight as much as a shopping trolley so i don't have to go overboard with heavy arse gear, the brake package i'm planning on putting on the car is better than the Scorch Racing S15 and that beast has 800rwhp and that thing is insane. I just read the latest Super Street Mag has a article on it... very nice piece of kit i'm gonna draw my inspiration off it.

IMG6369-L.jpg

Haha i have a couple of flat brim hats in the cardboard, the car will be dual purpose Rob just a matter of swapping tires and geometry, just wanna build something crazy and over the top, all my ideas i've wanted to do over the years put into one car.

Big f**k off GT Wing check! Low as f**k check! Massive deep dish wheels check! Sidepipe Titanium Exhaust check! V-mount intercooler/radiator check! Fully stripped out no dash and one seat check! Front splitter and Canards that would decapitate someone Fark yeah check!

Drive it like i stole it and hang the hell on, if it doesn't scare the shit out of me every time i drive it, white knuckling the bastard the whole lap and my arsehole chewing on that Bride seat then i'm afraid i have failed this project lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...