Jump to content
SAU Community

Wobbling Steering Wheel

InterCooL
 Share

Recommended Posts

InterCooL Rising Star

InterCooL

Posted
Posted

hey guys

short storey / question is:

brothers got an r32gtst and its having a chronic steering wheel shaking above 110km/h.

could the tail shaft / tail shaft universal joints becausing this?

long storey is;

he's had it balanced and aligned by 3-4 ppl, had joints / bushes etc changed, spent over $1k in suspension parts with no effect.

and he does regular driving on highways, the wobbling / shaking is bad enough to cause pain and numbness after an hour or so, so its bad.

i pulled out the tail shaft but i'm no mechanic to know if theres anything wrong with it, 2 of the uni joints seemed to like to 'click' into the central position, i'm not sure if this is normal or not

i know you can get 1 piece tailshafts made but its $500 more that does not want ot be spent if it doesnt fix the problem, does anyone have advice / similar situation experiences?

anyone know of a tailshaft / gearbox place that would look at the shaft and give an honest opinion if its dead or could be causing vibrations? thanks for any help :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139896-wobbling-steering-wheel/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
and they have been taken off and balanced by 3 places at least

The balancing won't do crap if the tyres are warped.. and may actually still balance ok. I've had that before on another car. Peeved me off no end for 6 months until I tried a different set of rims as a last resort.

My guess is that it wouldn't be the tail shaft through the steering.. rest of the car, sure, but tailshaft goes from engine -> gearbox -> diff.. the rack isn't involved.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
The balancing won't do crap if the tyres are warped.. and may actually still balance ok. I've had that before on another car. Peeved me off no end for 6 months until I tried a different set of rims as a last resort.

My guess is that it wouldn't be the tail shaft through the steering.. rest of the car, sure, but tailshaft goes from engine -> gearbox -> diff.. the rack isn't involved.

Spot on gordo!

I had a dodgy tailshaft after my gearbox conversion. You feel it thru the bottom of the seat and in your back.

I've also had egged tyres on the car, that you feel, and there is nothing you can do about it. A balance wont pick it up as its not a weight difference in the tyre or wheel. My bet is the tyres.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

My tail shaft uni joint is shot to hell in my commodore. It shakes the steering wheel to the shit house.

Change the uni joint. Problem gone.

uni joint approx: $15 from Repco.

My dad has also had many uni joints go, with EXACT same problem. If he gets on the gas, and the shaking disappears, it's definetely tail shaft.

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
Posted

i am in the middle of sorting a similar problem out myself i have replaced the rear half of the 2 piece tailshaft but have not balanced it yet with the front half, so im not 100% sure if this is the problem or not. but i am in the process of replacing all suspesion components including steering rack mount, radius bushes, front and rear camber adjustables.... then full wheel alignment, im going to see if this has any affect on the cars driving, if not im going to start with the tailshaft balance then maybe a steering rack overhaul if they think its needed. suck but there is nothing i can do about it but try to eliminate the sources 1 by 1.

imchecking all the little thing slike tyres aswell on the way but going to wait till after wednesday to see when it all gets done.

InterCooL Rising Star

InterCooL

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

turns out the joints couldnt be serviced cheaply

got a new one piece tailshaft

brother reports that the problem is worst then before?

he is now going to sell the car :yes:

took me 2-3 years to convince him he needed boost. now this happens :(

Edited by InterCooL
InterCooL Rising Star

InterCooL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

he had the wheels balanced and aligned again

had 3 different people confirm that the suspension is tight as

no one knows whast the go now....

i'll see if i can get a mate to swap all 4 wheels / tyres this w/e and see if that makes any diff...

InterCooL Rising Star

InterCooL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it's been alinged like 4-5 times recently, it was done today even

i plan on changing all the tyres / rims on it this w/e hopefulllly

i'm assuming the tailshaft was balanced before putting in, they custom made it and the place brags to make them for gtr drag skylines so you'd think they'd make on that can go over 100km/h with no worries :

DRFT Rookie

DRFT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is the steeering rack securely fitted? Bolts tight? Bushes not worn?

My old R31 had stuffed steering rack bushes and the bolts kept coming loose. Maybe check that.

Also check your front hubs don't have excessive runout. You can check that with a dial indicator.

Could be a front wheel bearing problem?

Has the car got any evidence of being in an accident?

Edited by DRFT
msnismo Grand Master

msnismo

Posted
Posted

Flat spots in the tyres FTW.

When I bought my car it had the shakes real bad over 100km/h. Turned out the previous owner had locked it up just before I picked it up. No amount of balancing fixed the problem...had to go 4 new tyres.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...