Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pics Anyone?

Het Guys... I'm gonna be starting this on the weekend, what Pics would people like? I am guessing mainly tailshaft lengths, and where to cut holes in the firewall?

  • 1 month later...

I just finish my conversion on my 4 doors Skyline, the only problem I have is the TCS and SLIP light is on permanent as well, please help! Beside that my 4 doors goes like hell and burn out like crazy, I wish I did it long ago, my one is totally stock but man! The fun factor is indescribable.

Hey mate, i did mine over a month ago but never hooked up my speedo or reverse lights coz i couldn't figure out how to. how did ya do that side of thing? do ya have any pics?

Hey mate, i did mine over a month ago but never hooked up my speedo or reverse lights coz i couldn't figure out how to. how did ya do that side of thing? do ya have any pics?

I did the reverse light wiring as per the giude at the start. are the pic's not working?

Speedo wiring is just wired the speedo sensor from the box to the old one, the plugs where different but just got a new water proof plug from auto one and wired it in, doesnt matter which wire goes to which.

Yeah pics aren;t working which has had me stuffed. Done over 500ks of driving this weekend all over Victori without a speedo, plus engine light is on from not hooking up the speed sensor wire i think.

Bad part is one of my wires has broken off the reverse sensor so i need to remove it to re solder it.... and then about 3 weeks ago i did my back so atm can;t even lie under my car ad fix it. haha... at least it not auto anymore though.

Hey mate! I had to pay a guy I know to short out the electrical side, but still he manage to everything else except for the TCS/traction, so in the end I do not want him to charge me an arm for f**king around any longer, I just took out the lights so I don't have to see those anymore, but who care, the manual supposed for slide, spin and burn out right?

I have just attempted to wire up my reverse lights exactly as described in this "how to" and got nothing... does anyone have any clues as to how it's done?

I followed - one wire coming off reverse switch connects to one grey wire and one black with pink wire from auto loom and the other wire goes to the red wire on the auto loom... but yeah, lights didnt work.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey this is a great DIY! Just curious... none of my laptops show any of the pictures? I really need them? Is there a way I can get the photos?

I am attempting this same conversion next week! Pictures would be a GREAT help!!

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...
I'm just puting RB25Det Neo6 to Nissan Patrol Y61 (GU) manual. I've got Auto Ecu and engine loom from Stagea. I removed abs/tps and other unnecessary (I hope) plugs from the engine loom.

Can you tell me - should I connect Ecu Pin 39 park/neutral position signal to something (what - which Ecu pin etc.) or leave it alone. There are no wires (mentioned in this topic - black with a pink stripe and grey. These two wires need to be joined to make the car think its in neutral, thus letting you start the car in my loom. So what I have to do with Ecu pin 39.

In the Skyline service manual I have read that on Park/Neutral position there is - 0 Volts on this Ecu Pin and on Drive position there is 4,7V.

So I think I can leave it without any wiring to start the engine - am I right. Greetings.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok I'm looking to do this conversion sometime in the near future (R34 GTT Tiptronic sedan) and need to start collecting parts.

Can someone who's done this confirm if this is a complete list of everything:

  • Clutch (new, to suit box) with lines, master and slave cylinders, reservoir, pedal
  • Flywheel (machined) with bolts
  • Gearbox (turbo R33 or R34) with bolts, rubber and mounts, sandwich plate, sensors
  • Manual spigot bush
  • Pedals: clutch, brake, assembly
  • Shifter
  • Tailshaft (front part, R33 or R34 should do)

From this thread and elsewhere my understanding is that Auto ECU will be fine (mine's got Nistune so I don't want to have to redo that) and there's no need to change instrument cluster, steering wheel, or diff either - does that sound right?

Also, is there such a thing as a trans cooler for/with the manual gearbox? If so, can I just re-plumb the existing auto trans cooler for this, or no? (I've got a slightly bigged Davies Craig unit).

Thanks!

Don't buy a clutch until you know which gearbox your getting, as the R34 is a pull type clutch.

I'd recommend trying to get everything from the one car if possible.

As for the tranny cooler, put it on EBay. Manuals don't run coolers. Theoretically you could set anything up, but,too much dicking around with finding a spot to draw from, fittings, lines & then there's the matter of a pump.

Don't buy a clutch until you know which gearbox your getting, as the R34 is a pull type clutch.

Of course, makes sense. I'm keen on getting an R34 box to have all parts from the same era, although clutches will be more expensive: ~$600 R33 vs. ~$750 for an NPC organic that should hold around 300rwkw.

I'd recommend trying to get everything from the one car if possible.

That's a good point. If possible, I'd also prefer a recent part-out as opposed to having had the parts sitting on the shelf for months/years.

As for the tranny cooler, put it on EBay. Manuals don't run coolers. Theoretically you could set anything up, but,too much dicking around with finding a spot to draw from, fittings, lines & then there's the matter of a pump.

Thanks for the tip, good to know!

Anytime.

The NPC single plate organic isn't too bad, I've just ticked over 2,000km on mine, with nowhere near 300wkw.......yet!

These clutches are re-stickered Exedy units, so, shop around!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...