Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Last week I was given a nice canary yellow sticker on my windscreen for my blow off valve... This apparently was too loud. The police officers could only find the BOV to be out of place, and not being adjustable, gave me a sticker. Now I always thought they have to find 2 or more things to give your car a sticker? Anyway I accepted the sticker thinking, ill put the factory BOV on and take it thru the pits.

PIT DAY:

Arriving at Kelmscott pits (might be my mistake) I waited in queue. Behind me was a P plater in an older commodore. The inspector came out and looked at me and failed me before I had even got out the car, making sly comments at my car making sure the P plater could hear... Which I found unnecessary.

The car is lowered to 100mm, and has a pretty large body kit on it. A turbo timer and a boost controller and (had) a BOV. The car is in great nick. Things he found wrong with my car: Suspension to hard, Window wipers were silver and so was water nozzle. Overall I found this to be bullshit and unfair.

Anyone know a way I can get thru the pits with out trev inspectors giving me grief? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140172-pits-why-are-we-hated/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi all,

Last week I was given a nice canary yellow sticker on my windscreen for my blow off valve... This apparently was too loud. The police officers could only find the BOV to be out of place, and not being adjustable, gave me a sticker. Now I always thought they have to find 2 or more things to give your car a sticker? Anyway I accepted the sticker thinking, ill put the factory BOV on and take it thru the pits.

PIT DAY:

Arriving at Kelmscott pits (might be my mistake) I waited in queue. Behind me was a P plater in an older commodore. The inspector came out and looked at me and failed me before I had even got out the car, making sly comments at my car making sure the P plater could hear... Which I found unnecessary.

The car is lowered to 100mm, and has a pretty large body kit on it. A turbo timer and a boost controller and (had) a BOV. The car is in great nick. Things he found wrong with my car: Suspension to hard, Window wipers were silver and so was water nozzle. Overall I found this to be bullshit and unfair.

Anyone know a way I can get thru the pits with out trev inspectors giving me grief? 

Yeah goto another RTA place like myaree thats the one i recommend. Unscrew the turbo timmer and hide it somewhere so they cannot see it and make sure it is turned off. Is boost controller manual or electronic? Dunno why he pick on silver stuff that part sounds BS to me.What about cars with chrome bumpers? Ride height will be a problem. Must be within legal height limits. Think BOV has to be plummback to be accepted. So it sounds like you have abit off mucking about to do to get it passed...Boy dont we just love our men in blue(NOT) heheh. Good luck mate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wipers, and water squirters were painted black this evening..

The height i dont know how im going about.. i mean i like the height it is now.. i dont wanna have to make it a Nissan Highline just to get it past the pits tho. Riduculous it went in for a BOV and he never even looked twice at the thing.

With the suspension, should i buy some stock front springs or something? A mate suggested using someone else to take the car?

I have a mate's sister in mind :)

Thanks for feedback guys, i think i might try welshpool next time :)

Ta.

i went over at whelspool 2 get my car rego'ed few weeks back not 2 much greif... the guy looked really hard at the Driftwa.com sticker n then shrugged it off he seemed pretty cool took the car for a drive n acctually enjoyed it said it drove better then most of the others he had driven... so maybe give them a go... get there about 7.30am tho cause it gets hell packed as of about 8am...

Cheers Trav

hmmm is the dude at kelmscott some old dude wiht like soughta skin disease? if so thats what he bascially said about my supsension too hehe but i had TEIN HR suspension :) so hmmm go to welshpool much better lol

Cheers

Chi

i was about to to ask the same question about the old guy in kelmscott, hes not a happy chappy. anyways welshpool is my best friend got my car past there twice. also how low did they say the car was, have you messured it yourself

i recommend welshpool too!

i passed with turbo timer but ur gonna have to do something about the ride height, plum back bovs are accepted as long as its not overly loud

dun bother gettin someone else to take it over, same shit diff smell

all luck, unless she has a wikid rack

Yeah it was an old guy... He was horrible. Thanks for the offer of lending me your springs, but I’m going to buy some stock springs tomorrow from the wreckers incase I need to put the car over the pits again in the future. Once on ill try Welshpool, thanks for the heads up! :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...