Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I attacked my front bar with a hacksaw yesterday, I enjoyed it waaayyy too much :alien: , chopped out the centre section of the stock series 1 bar to...errr...maximize airflow to the cooler (yeh that's it)...and as an added bonus I can actually see the cooler now. :P

Has anyone else done this themselves and if so how did you go about tidying up the ends that are left near the indicators?

I've just got 100/mph tape around the holes at the moment, doesn't look completely ugly, better than nothing, but I'd like a nicer finish.

Any suggestions would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14048-how-to-tidy-up-a-chopped-front-bar/
Share on other sites

If you kept the other pieces you chopped off, try and cut pieces from those to (almost) block the holes. If you need to use part of the bend, try using a heat gun to straighten it up.

Next put it in place, and use fiber glass on the inside of the bumber so you dont see it, and bog the bits up on the visible parts with fiber glass resin.

Then send it as flat as you can, then spray it.

I did this for a hole in a bumper once that occured from an accident, and it came out pretty good.

rob77,

Mine looks pretty much exactly like yours in the avatar, I've also relocated the plate to the same position.

The only difference is I've covered the cross-sectioned holes with gaffa tape, neatly but it's still just tape. I don't have a digicam though so it'll take ages (if ever) for me to post a pic.

Zahos,

Thanks for that, sounds like a plan, now all I need is something that resembles dexterous hand-eye co-ordination. :spank:

If you had seen the mess I made hacking that section out you wouldn't be advising me to touch a heat gun, you'd also understand why I hid it beneath all that tape. :uh-huh:

I did the same thing, but i took the bumper and the cut-offs to a "plastic welder" to cover/seal the holes. It came perfect!:) The only way to tell it has been repaired is by taking the bumper off and looking at it from the other side. :uh-huh:

This is the clearest shot i have so far:

ahh I see, the M-spec goes lower, has bigger vents at the bottom where as the stocky (like mine and rob77's avatar) just has a fairly narrow gap running along the bottom...and the sides on the stock bar curl under more, more rounded look.

The newly enlarged hole in the stock bar isnt going to be a nice square shape is it? atleast not without a more significant amount of work. Still, just to get those holes trimmed and capped would help the looks alot i think.

there is a plastic welder in malaga who is very friendly, now i cant remember the name but maybe someone who drives on malaga drive has seen it, off reid highway onto malaga drive about 1km up on the left, anyways he was very good for when i needed stuff plastic welded.

Jon,

it may have passed compliance under the old SEVS law, but may not be the same case under the new one. It's far more strict than the old one and harder for backyard compliancer to do something a bit dodgy.

Originally posted by zanda

So you guys are all basically content to cut out the front intrusion bar?

q: if you get yellowed, how do you put that back?

That's why i sealed off the cuts, to look as though it is meant to be like that. Firstly a cop may not jerry to the modification and i probably get done for some other BS, secondly the road worthy tester wouldn't know about it. The mesh inside the square also acts as a support, so the bumper is not flimsy.

The plastic welder charge me about $160, that also included priming and sanding the middle section ready for painting. Unfortunately, while sanding back the rest of the bumper we found some impurities in the paint work. So the bumper had to be sanded right back and then high filled and primed to produce a decent job. The paint was matched very well, as could be seen by the mirrors (they were done at the same time), but the bumper did not come out perfect due to the undercoat. More layers might have solved this, but the car had to be ready for Summer Nats 16.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...