Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellaz i just got told by someone that i can run series 5 rx7 injectrs in my rb20 without the hassle of the ballast reisistor re-wire, im assuming they need tobe the turbo ones, do they bolt straight in? any ideas on price? and is it possible? cheers fellaz

Edited by dead32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/
Share on other sites

there were three types of RX7 injectors, somethin like blue green and yellow. i think one of the would go straight in without wiring hassels, but cant remember which. from memory it was green and they were pretty rare, but thats from my very bad memory....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2623592
Share on other sites

series 5 rx7 ones are red top top feed. I run them in my car (r32 rb30det) no probs with idle or atomisation. They drop straight in, and cost $350 a set (x6). They idle shitter on a std ecu remap though.

Rb25 wont run em as they need side feed ones.

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2623719
Share on other sites

no. they will not idle on a stock comp as you will be delivering double the fuel (270 vs 550)

after the injectors have been fitted and the K value has changed.

The stock settings are as follows:

K Value: 0101

injector lag time: 4C

The settings for 550CC are as follows

K Value: 007E

injector lag time: 5F

you will then need to change the

timing and fuel TP scales so they read the correct part of the map.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2623779
Share on other sites

Jazza my 550cc rx7 injectors are as good as ANY 550cc injectors, and do the job the same as any other one would.

Merlin they are difficult to tune with ONLY when remapping the STD ecu. Not an issue on PFC.

People say they run poorly on skylines because because of the spray pattern. They are designed for a rotor.

Mine are in, and are tuned. NO idle issues, poor economy etc AT ALL.

They get 10Lt per 100kms, and are no different to any other injector.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2624000
Share on other sites

yep. nice injectors. i ran them with my autronic in my dr30 (rb26) they topped out at around 335 rwkw. with 45 pound base presure. ide was good and they just squese in the rail.

just gotta change the plugs to denso oval ones.

ive still got them im gona advertise them soon. x6 with plugs.

im running bosch 363 injectors now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140870-rx7-injectrs/#findComment-2624191
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...