Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I've spent the last 2 hours searching and can't find it.

Can anyone link me or;

1) tell me the differences between the R33 turbos.

2) Which one is best suited to the RB20.

3) I know you need to make sure you get "the elbow" for the conversion...but what is it? What does it look like?

4) Any other things I should do first? Fuel pump perhaps? Will I need a SAFC or similar aswell?

Cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc

Hey,

Get the R34 Turbo!

I have a R34 Turbo on my RB20 and it runs really well! Bolted straight on and used the RB20 Actuator to get the stock 10psi. Boost starts just before 3000revs and Full boost comes on just before 4000revs. :D

Edited by r32matt

1. i dunno but i would like to find out. i recently just too my S1 turbo off and replaced it with an S2 (because the S1 was rooted) and noticed that the design of the compressor wheel was a little different. the smaller blades did not protrude past the tip of the bigger blades.

and the S1 has a steel compressor where as the S2 has a nylon compressor

2. the S2 is supposed to spool faster due to the lower rotational mass, and seeing as rb20s cant spool turbos well, this would be better.

3. the elbow is the compressor outlet. go have a look at your turbo, it is the first pipe that comes off of your turbo, and goes into your intercooler piping

4. fuel pump is definitely a good idea, and you really should do it, just in case. another good bang for buck mod is to get your ECU remapped. cheap and just as effective as stand alone ECUs. and come with all the stock knock sensors, cold start crap etc

The r34 turbo, is pretty laggy i think (has the same sized exhaust wheel as the vg30). In first it doesnt start spooling to about 3-3.5k so it makes taking off sort of hard, it does kick in hard at about 4.5k though. The performance increase wasn't all that great for me, i got a remap at the same time and achieved only 164 rwkw (on the same dyno, that i had had it measured, close to stock, at 133rwkw)

i will upgrade to cgc hi flowed series 2 r33 turbo soonish

Unless i get off my P's before then, and can get a GTR

S1 is definitely still worth it

easy to tell the different compressors, one is aluminium and the other is nylon. they feel much different

and the number on the comp cover is different

i think the S2 has 45v4 and S1 has 45v3

may need someone to confirm, thats just going by my crappy memory :D

Edited by salad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...