Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I've spent the last 2 hours searching and can't find it.

Can anyone link me or;

1) tell me the differences between the R33 turbos.

2) Which one is best suited to the RB20.

3) I know you need to make sure you get "the elbow" for the conversion...but what is it? What does it look like?

4) Any other things I should do first? Fuel pump perhaps? Will I need a SAFC or similar aswell?

Cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc

Hey,

Get the R34 Turbo!

I have a R34 Turbo on my RB20 and it runs really well! Bolted straight on and used the RB20 Actuator to get the stock 10psi. Boost starts just before 3000revs and Full boost comes on just before 4000revs. :D

Edited by r32matt

1. i dunno but i would like to find out. i recently just too my S1 turbo off and replaced it with an S2 (because the S1 was rooted) and noticed that the design of the compressor wheel was a little different. the smaller blades did not protrude past the tip of the bigger blades.

and the S1 has a steel compressor where as the S2 has a nylon compressor

2. the S2 is supposed to spool faster due to the lower rotational mass, and seeing as rb20s cant spool turbos well, this would be better.

3. the elbow is the compressor outlet. go have a look at your turbo, it is the first pipe that comes off of your turbo, and goes into your intercooler piping

4. fuel pump is definitely a good idea, and you really should do it, just in case. another good bang for buck mod is to get your ECU remapped. cheap and just as effective as stand alone ECUs. and come with all the stock knock sensors, cold start crap etc

The r34 turbo, is pretty laggy i think (has the same sized exhaust wheel as the vg30). In first it doesnt start spooling to about 3-3.5k so it makes taking off sort of hard, it does kick in hard at about 4.5k though. The performance increase wasn't all that great for me, i got a remap at the same time and achieved only 164 rwkw (on the same dyno, that i had had it measured, close to stock, at 133rwkw)

i will upgrade to cgc hi flowed series 2 r33 turbo soonish

Unless i get off my P's before then, and can get a GTR

S1 is definitely still worth it

easy to tell the different compressors, one is aluminium and the other is nylon. they feel much different

and the number on the comp cover is different

i think the S2 has 45v4 and S1 has 45v3

may need someone to confirm, thats just going by my crappy memory :D

Edited by salad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...