Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have come across some information that will be an absolute Godsend for those out there with an AUTO r33, I have done this mod myself and can tell you it will definitely quicken up your shifts for $0.

O.K here goes, on the inside front, drivers side, of the engine bay, facing the engine fan are 4 plugs on a bracket.

The TAN coloured plug is the one you want.

Find the red wire on this plug and cut it.

You can put a switch on it if you want,I did, which will allow you to switch your shifts from hard to soft.

Although I am told, its not as fast shifting as the valve body upgrade, the difference is very noticeable, Going around a corner at under half throttle my r33 chirps when it hits second.

Give it a go, it works wonders.

Disclaimer:-Do at your own risk as I am not a mechanic, and don't have any degree I am simply passing on this awesome info (I got from a mechanic) to fellow skyliners, and am void of any responsibility if anything were to go wrong with your car. (It sux how much you got to cover yourself these days)

Edited by chadr33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141351-quicker-auto-shifts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

any got an engine bay pic and can put a circle around the plug so i know which one it is ...im intrested to know what it does...

and with harder shifts do you think it will cause any damage to the auto, as the shifts are a lot more harsh ??

EDIT: HERE IS A MY R33 ENGINE BAY PIC (OLD PIC) CAN SOMEONE CIRCLE WHERE I SHOULD BE LOOKING

111.jpg

Edited by mr_crust

The wire you are talking about is listed on the wiring diagram as one of the feedback for the Auto to tell the Ecu when it is shifting this would cause a similar problem to using aftermarket Ecu's. No feedback = harsh and erratic shifts as the ecu will not retard the power with out the Auto telling it to do it.

I will definately not be doing this crazy D.I.Y. you can make your own decisions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...