Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Basically, I am putting an RB25 turbo onto my RB20. I'll upgrade the fuel pump, and maybe get a fuel reg.

So given that the Walbro's don't flow aswell as the Bosch's, for a target of maximim 200kw, realistically I am guessing 180kw, what would be the best option?

It seems everyone has a go at the walbro's, but unlike the Bosch's they APPARENTLY;

- Bolt straight in (Don't require mods to mount/fuel lines/extra fuel lines to reach bottom of tank)

- Don't have 1/4 tank issues.

I will put the effort in to install a 910/040 if I have to, but is there any need? I don't want to get a 2nd hand GTR pump.

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142054-walbro-vs-bosch-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

what about with the same amount of power ie 200rwkw but using an aftermarket turbo or high flow turbo maybe running about 16 psi max, would the walbro item still be sufficient. again on the rb20, reason i ask is that im in a similar situation as eXc.

what about with the same amount of power ie 200rwkw but using an aftermarket turbo or high flow turbo maybe running about 16 psi max, would the walbro item still be sufficient. again on the rb20, reason i ask is that im in a similar situation as eXc.

That's where I am at aswell, as I will be using a bigger turbo (rb25) possibly a high flow.

walbro will be fine up to 200rwkw anything over get the bosch,

they really arne't that hard to fit. but if you are going to use the bosch you will probably need to run direct feed from the battery as the current draw is a lot higher than the stocker and may blow the fuse (it did in my car)

Cheers

why not the gtr pump? mine is doing fine on my rb20 upto 270rwkw

if you wanted a new pump i would go the 040.. my brother had one in his old r33 gtst and never had problems with the quarter tank issue.

I'm considering ripping my bosch pump out come summer as bosch pumps sound crap once the weather warms up.

I'll be dropping a new pump in so it will most likely be something along the lines of a tomei/nismo internal pump. They are both around the $300 mark. I won't go a second hand gtr pump as second hand really isn't worth the trouble when it may get a little lazy 6months down the track.

I'll be dropping a new pump in so it will most likely be something along the lines of a tomei/nismo internal pump. They are both around the $300 mark. I won't go a second hand gtr pump as second hand really isn't worth the trouble when it may get a little lazy 6months down the track.

Where did you find that price? They have all been $400 + when I looked.

2nd hand - Same reason I dont want a GTR pump

what about with the same amount of power ie 200rwkw but using an aftermarket turbo or high flow turbo maybe running about 16 psi max, would the walbro item still be sufficient. again on the rb20, reason i ask is that im in a similar situation as eXc.

I ran a walbro at 240rwkw and 16psi no problems on a hiflow turbo and 555 injectors, pump handled it all fine.

Yes, i've since sold and installed another brand, but I'm setting up for 270-300rwkw, thats a fair difference.

I'm considering ripping my bosch pump out come summer as bosch pumps sound crap once the weather warms up.

I'll be dropping a new pump in so it will most likely be something along the lines of a tomei/nismo internal pump. They are both around the $300 mark. I won't go a second hand gtr pump as second hand really isn't worth the trouble when it may get a little lazy 6months down the track.

As did my "mint" GTR pump, had a workshop put it in, had been working fine for about a year until a couple weeks ago when my car started running very, how can i say, shit. Turned out it was the GTR fuel pump so i replaced it with a in tank VR commodore replacement fuel pump ($95 brand new, all i could find at the time) put my car on the dyno again to check A/F ratios and they were all sweet at 160RWKW

i picked a Denso high capacity pump that flows around 300 l/h. its a direct fit and its not as much hassle as a bosch pump with the messing around with the intank brackets and that. it cost me around $250 if i recall correctly

its good for around 300 rwkw.

anyway just thought i would give you another option

cheers

i picked a Denso high capacity pump that flows around 300 l/h. its a direct fit and its not as much hassle as a bosch pump with the messing around with the intank brackets and that. it cost me around $250 if i recall correctly

its good for around 300 rwkw.

Any more info? The part number where you got it from? :whistling:

Any more info? The part number where you got it from? :wave:

AH you got the denso 500hp rated pump....thats what Im going....Ill try to get the part number tonight...a workmate of mine has one...

if you can get these for close to $250 you are doing well, they are a top pump...

and as stated direct factory fit, took about 15mins in same guys silvia...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...