Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently been doing some upgrades to my car and my mechanic wants me too loose the stereo as to get the weight down to the minimum. He has already pulled the air conditioning system and heater core out.

I rarely drive the car but want the stereo for the odd occasion that i do. Is it worth keeping for the two times a year i drive the car or should i accept the fact that he is infact correct and racecars dont need stereos..Its not like i can listen too it when i am racing anyway... am i just beeing a noob for wanting too keep it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142204-race-cars-with-stereos/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Not that much in it Adrian. Removing the four speakers + headunit would probably net you a couple of kilos. There's the wiring loom on top of that but if it's the standard stuff I wouldn't call it excessive.

If you do want to keep the stereo but save a bit of weight, bin the rear speakers and strip the wiring back from the loom - acoustically they don't do a whole lot.

Stripping the deadening from your car would net you a fair bit though.

It appears I have left myself logged in at my mechanics workshop....again....

This is the first I've heard of this topic although I must admit, I'm interested in the outcome of the discussion.

(very cheeky Mr Gatt!)

I've actually heard of people running times.

Then stripping stereo etc out (But this included subs etc)

Taking out spare wheel etc etc.

And running slower times. They just didn't seem to manage the traction the weight gave them off the mark.

LOL that is funnnny!

I think loose it. Because really what kind of quality are you going to get out of it, its a race car... so no sound deadening = no sound quality, noisy exaust and all that crap, so once again you wont hear it properly...

Just listen to some music before you leave the house and humm to it! Also think, sell the stereo more money for the car! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...