Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Brakes

HolyEvil
 Share

Recommended Posts

HolyEvil Community Regular

HolyEvil

Posted
Posted

hi there guys, just changed the wheels of my skyline and found that the disc rotors r pretty rusty and the brake looks pretty ugly.. was thinking of changing the brakes.. would the disc rotors be included (like in a package) when I change it or it needs to be changed seperately

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

How about just drive the car. A normal application of the brakes will ordinarily remove surface rust (unless the rotors have been soaking in water for months).

I find often my rotors develop a light rust layer, particulary after the car gets a bath, or if it has rained.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2658011
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Light surface rust, as mentioned, is typical on rotors, one or two applications of the brake pedal (Not even hard) will remove it very quickly.

The time when you need to put in new pads/rotors is when the pads wear down that they need replacing (No material left), usually get the rotors machined at this point, unless there is a chunk missing from them, or cracks are apparent, at which point, new ones can be bought and fitted.

Each time you change your pads, it is worthwhile having your rotors machined at basically ANY brake shop.

There is no use fitting new rotors, to old pads, nor new pads to old rotors, as they will chew each other out worse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2659945
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
hi there guys, just changed the wheels of my skyline and found that the disc rotors r pretty rusty and the brake looks pretty ugly.. was thinking of changing the brakes.. would the disc rotors be included (like in a package) when I change it or it needs to be changed seperately

Evil,

A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?).

I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on.

HTH,

Kot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2660759
Share on other sites
HolyEvil Community Regular

HolyEvil

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Evil,

A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?).

I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on.

HTH,

Kot

hi there the rust on the rotors are no more, but the rust on the small circle around the rotors is still there and i that was what i really wanna get rid off.. i'll post a picture tomorrow, cuz it's too dark outside for a proper photoshoot =)

a R34 GT-4 is a non turbo skyline running on 4wd.. like a wrx? so i can't get like a deep dish at the rear.

so next time my pads wear out, i'll just get it changed at the brake shop and get them to machine it for me at the same time? but how do you get all 4 rotors out? what's your car standing on then?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2660913
Share on other sites
R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
Hi there.. attached are photos of the area of the rotor where there are rust.. and which i would like to get rid of.. if i get the rotors machined, would this area be covered?

thanks

No that part does not get touched. Only the face that is touched by the pads gets machined.

What works easy is simply get a can of black VHT paint, place a rag over the caliper and spray that area (the hat) turn the disc around by hand as you do. If a little bit of overspray gets on the disc it really doesn't matter. As soon as you drive the car the pads will take it off the very second you touch the brake. Ends up looking perfect and the high temp paint seems to hold up ok (looks better than rust anyhow)

I used to do this every so often when changing wheels or pads and it keeps them looking good at takes just a few seconds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142229-changing-brakes/#findComment-2664566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...