Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recommend bps in cleveland behind tyre zone. I went there after having a bad experience at hardcore and they did a really good job. There not as well known and wont show dis-interest because your not wanting to spend $10k in one go but they know there stuff. The main mechanic there as worked on alot of race cars and exotic cars like ferrari and porsche.

brisbane turbo and tunning?? never used them, but they sound all right...well, as far as i know any way

I heard 90% good reports about them.

For except one where a guy went to go and pick up his car and on the way there he saw them test driving it rather hard like smokin the tyres down the back streets.

I wouldnt be happy with that.

I think the owners son drives a grey R32 GTR, he seems like a good bloke.

brisbane turbo tuning in woolloongabba?

as if! never going back to them.

they couldnt tune the thing to perfection like matt and allstar would be able to.

and they dont even have the equipment there to properly tune a powerfc. they tune it in the handcontroller. no laptop, no additional software, nothing.

pretty damm ghey!

I heard 90% good reports about them.

For except one where a guy went to go and pick up his car and on the way there he saw them test driving it rather hard like smokin the tyres down the back streets.

I wouldnt be happy with that.

I think the owners son drives a grey R32 GTR, he seems like a good bloke.

i actually went to school with him...thats why i hear all these stories from him, haha. nothing bad of course. i have talked to john personally once, and he sounded good

Matty Spry at PITS is only place in qld i can recommend......

very friendly, not arrogant like a lot of highly regarded tuners.

Heard some negative things about APC but mainly regarding overcharging.

Matty Spry at PITS is only place in qld i can recommend......

very friendly, not arrogant like a lot of highly regarded tuners.

and the best thing is you can actually sit in the passanger seat while he's on the dyno and tunnin the car and he'll explain things to you if you ask a question and will either be detailed about it or straight to the point with an answer based on how you come across with knowledge.

haven't tried allstar yet but i'm tempted to give them a bit of a go in a couple of wks time.

car's runnin a bit rich and damm the garage has way to many fumes of a morning when i go in it after lettin the car turb itself off with the turbo timer.

What ever happened to Millenium Motorsports?? Not that i live in Queensland (nor australia for that matter) anymore but he tuned my car and i was quite satisfied..

Are they still around?!

yeah millenium is still around. have heard mixed stories about them.

What ever happened to Millenium Motorsports?? Not that i live in Queensland (nor australia for that matter) anymore but he tuned my car and i was quite satisfied..

Are they still around?!

Millenium is still around. I take my car to them for everything. Great guys. Easy to talk to. Will explain everything to you. And most important, they won't rip you off.

It’s all about preference. In my opinion I like to meet the people talk to them and throw a spanner in the

Works and ask some really stupid questions if they nod like they agree or tell you something totally

Stupid take a walk & don’t go back. I spoke to allot of tuners and I went to a few because I herd they were good. They all say I specialise in this or that and that means not a thing in the real world.

I took my car to Godzilla Motor sport and they picked up things the last 4 dynos didn’t * Like why my power line was feathering out at high end... Not a hard thing to work out but if 4 Tuners missed it then wtf is that?

In my opinion

Mark and Bonnie @ Godzilla Motor sport is the only place I will take my GTR.

PH: 38904488

PS: Like I said talk to them first. The power of observation is a wonderful thing

PPS: I have tryed not to say the F bomb as much as posable in this post :)

Hmm this is a dillema for me at the moment, it comes down to who can tune R34 ROMs and is familiar with the base maps...basically Mercury can do it as they now have Nissan Live Edit. Unfortuantely I don't think Richo has done many/any ROM tunes otherwise he'd be my pick for sure, awesome guy and very helpful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...