Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G`day

I've been doing some research about these cars, checkin' up on specifications, it's capacity and all that jazz. I've noticed some of the stock gt-t 34's have different front bars.. Was there any series I and II's with the 34's like what happened with the R33's?

Another thing I have noticed is, some 34's don't have that yellow little round indicator lights on the rear which i find it ugly but instead its red.. Why is this? does Gt-t's have them and Gt-r's dont?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142547-r34-skyline-gt-t/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

G`day

I've been doing some research about these cars, checkin' up on specifications, it's capacity and all that jazz. I've noticed some of the stock gt-t 34's have different front bars.. Was there any series I and II's with the 34's like what happened with the R33's?

Another thing I have noticed is, some 34's don't have that yellow little round indicator lights on the rear which i find it ugly but instead its red.. Why is this? does Gt-t's have them and Gt-r's dont?

As far as I know, the sedan has two red tail lights with a seperate rectangular indicator, whereas the coupe's have the indicators in the centre of the inner red tail light.

(EDIT: A pic to show what I mean)

post-18125-1163035274.jpg

Edited by Big Rizza

That S2 front bar makes it look like it's trying to compete with Chaser's rather than Supra's - it looks like it's trying to be elegant rather than aggressive. Not in keeping with the skyline's character IMO.

Edited by Big Rizza

Some of the coupes instead of having two reverese white lights have a red one. Which is a fog light. In the northmost island of japan there is lots of fog so thats what it is for.

I love the series 2 front bar, looks so plain and sedan like.

SII front bar = Ford Falcon wannabe look :happy:

Now I find that offensive!! You're just jeolous!!

SII bar....mega cutting and abuse to fit FMIC, then it'll look crap as well

Stop picking on my car!!! It has more powah than both of you remember!!!!!

There is another front bar variation.

post-18125-1163039573.jpg

Left is the regular GTT, right is the factory NISMO aero kit option. Being a factory option, you could still call it stock.

EDIT: Does anyone else find it amusing that the car without the NISMO kit has NISMO badges, and the car with the NISMO kit doesn't have NISMO badges?

Edited by Big Rizza
SII front bar = Ford Falcon wannabe look :happy:

One of these things is not like the others,

One of these things just doesn't belong,

Can you tell which thing is not like the others

By the time I finish my song?

post-18125-1163040887.jpg

Did you guess which thing was not like the others?

Did you guess which thing just doesn't belong?

One of these things is not like the others,

One of these things just doesn't belong,

Can you tell which thing is not like the others

By the time I finish my song?

post-18125-1163040887.jpg

Did you guess which thing was not like the others?

Did you guess which thing just doesn't belong?

I knew what I was looking for but it still took me ages! Proves the point that S2 front bar = BA lookalike :verymad:

Here's some specs when i did my research.

Nissan Skyline Specifications

General Details

Year 1998

Month May

Make Nissan

Model Skyline

Spec 25GTt turbo

Body Type Coupe

Chassis Code GF-ER34

Price New

Yen Price 2,898,000 yen

AUD Price 34,359.17 aud

LSD Yes

Brakes

Front Brakes Ventilated disk

Rear Brakes Ventilated disk

Wheels & Tyres

Front Tyres 225/45ZR17

Rear Tyres 225/45ZR17

Alloy Wheels 17 inch standard

Suspension

Front Suspension Independent suspension multiple link type

Rear Suspension Independent suspension multiple link type

Dimensions & Mass

Exterior Dimensions 4580 x 1725 x 1340

Interior Dimensions 1780 x 1400 x 1105

Wheel Base 2665

Tread 1480 / 1470

Ground Clearance 140

Curb Weight 1410

Gross Weight 0

Number of Seats 5

Number of Doors 2

Turning Circle 5

Engine

Engine Code RB25DET

Displacement (cc) 2498

Aspiration Turbo with intercooler

Max Power 280 ps (205.94 kw) @ 6400 rpm

Max Torque 35.0 kg*m (343.23 N*m) @ 3200 rpm

Power to Weight Ration 146.90

Engine Type Watercooled Inline 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve Intercooled Turbo

Engine Info NEO straight 6

Compression Ratio 9.00

Bore 86.00

Stroke 71.70

Fuel System

Fuel System NISSAN EGI (ECCS) (electronic gasoline injection)

Fuel Type Unleaded premium gasoline

LEV No

Fuel Capacity (Litres) 65

Fuel (Average) 10.20 (9.40 for the manual) **cough yeah right**

Fuel (Highway) 5.70

Accessories

Power Steering Yes

Sunroof Option

Rear Wiper Yes

Front Spoiler Option

Rear Spoiler Option

ABS Brakes Yes

Traction Control (TCS) Yes

Privacy Glass Option

UV Glass Yes

Air Conditioning Full automatic

Woodgrain Trim No

Cruise Control No

Central Locking Yes

Power Windows Yes

Telescopic Steering No

Tilt Steering Yes

Leather Steering Wheel Yes

Power Seat Front No

Power Seat Rear No

Leather Seats No

Folding Seats No

Audio Visual

Audio Deck AM/FM radio equipped cassette player

CD PLayer No

Satellite Navigation Option

Safety Features

Child Seat Yes

Rear 3 Point Yes

Seat Pretension Yes

LTD Front Seatbelt Yes

Side Impact Bar Yes

Air Bag Driver Yes

Air Bag Passenger Yes

Air Bag Side Option

Lighting

Front Fog Lights Option

Rear Fog Lights Option

HID Yes

Projectors No

Colours

Black pearl

White

Dark blue pearl

Athlete silver (M)

Sonic silver (M)

Active red

Option

Lightning yellow

There is another front bar variation.

post-18125-1163039573.jpg

Left is the regular GTT, right is the factory NISMO aero kit option. Being a factory option, you could still call it stock.

EDIT: Does anyone else find it amusing that the car without the NISMO kit has NISMO badges, and the car with the NISMO kit doesn't have NISMO badges?

It's actually called the Nissan Aero bar. I have the full kit. It's not NISMO.

There is also an Altia kit which uses the same front bar but has the giant wang. This is bad, stay away from it. Altia is a separate company from what I understand but not sure how closely related they might be to Nissan. I suspect it's more closely related to the dealers.

My car had quite a few factory and dealer only options.

Here's some more GTT info.

http://www.linney.org/Index.htm?Nissan_sky...R34GTT_info.htm

go for the nissan aero kit... this is what i have.. the kit looks so nice and simple and adds to the look of the car... i have the original nissan press release notes for the R34 from 1998... it there it states that the R34 gtt chassis is stiffer then the R33 gtr chassis... i found that very interesting...

Thanks for all the info guys.. appreciate it.

Few years ago i brought a lemon s1 R33, had it for a year but it took me months to sell it, had too many problems. I was told the car had been in a major accident in japan (i was the first oz. owner) by a panel beater when i took the car in for a small spray job. Thank god, i got rid of the car for the same price i brought it..

With my next car, i will be doing my h/w and hopefully I'll come across a clean healthy black 34.

What was the production years for 34's? 1998 till 2000? Isn't that a bit short? So V35's begun in 2001 ?

Can some one tell me what on earth Xenon head lights are, lol i have no idea what they are or what they do.

Abo Bob

From the site you gave above.. what i've noticed is theres two different interior styles.. is the left one optional and the right standard?

R34GTTinfo_interior2.jpgR34GTTinfo_interior.jpg

Edited by pretender-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...